F125 wheel calibration not working

Learn about F125 wheel calibration not working

Updated October 8, 2025

If you’re stuck with F125 wheel calibration not working, you’re not alone. It’s frustrating when the wheel won’t center, inputs spike, or the game ignores your steering. In F1 25, this usually happens when the game profile, wheel drivers/firmware, or Steam/console input modes don’t align. This guide will get your wheel recognized, calibrated correctly, and feeling consistent on track.

Quick Answer

Most “calibration not working” issues come from the wrong device profile, Steam/console input mode conflicts, or driver-level rotation/firmware mismatches. Update your wheel firmware, set rotation to 900–1080° in the wheel software, disable Steam Input for F1 25, select the correct in-game wheel preset, then recalibrate in Settings > Controls > Calibration. Save as a new custom preset.

Why F125 wheel calibration not working Feels So Hard at First

You’re dealing with three layers at once: your wheel’s firmware/software, the platform (Steam/console input handling), and F1 25’s device profiles and calibration. If any layer disagrees about steering angle, axis direction, or which device is “active,” the calibration screen won’t behave—or changes won’t stick.

What F125 wheel calibration not working Actually Means in F1 25

In F1 25, this issue typically shows up as:

Steering not detected in the Calibration screen (no movement bars).
Full lock in-game at very little rotation, or never reaching full lock.
Throttle/brake stuck at 0% or 100%, inverted, or jittery.
Force feedback missing even though the wheel is detected.
Calibration changes not saving or reverting after leaving the menu.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Have these ready:

Your wheelbase, rim, and pedals connected directly (avoid USB hubs).
Latest wheel firmware and software:
- Logitech: G Hub
- Thrustmaster: TM Control Panel/Driver
- Fanatec: Fanatec Control Panel (FanaLab optional)
Platform notes:
- PC (Steam/EA App) fully updated F1 25.
- PS5: wheel in PS5 mode; Controllers > Communication Method set to Use USB Cable.
- Xbox Series X|S: wheel in Xbox mode with current firmware.
In-game menus you’ll use:
- Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback
- Presets/Device list
- Calibration
- Vibration & Force Feedback

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 wheel calibration not working

Power-on and connect in the right order

Turn on the wheelbase first and let it auto-center.
Plug pedals into the base (or PC) as per manufacturer guidance.
Launch F1 25 after the wheel is ready.
Success looks like: the wheel recenters on power, and the platform shows it as a connected device.

Update drivers/firmware and set rotation in wheel software (PC)

Logitech G Hub: update firmware, set Rotation = 900° (or 1080° if available), enable Allow Game to Adjust.
Thrustmaster: in the TM Control Panel, set Rotation = 1080°, ensure Auto-Center = by the game.
Fanatec: in Fanatec Control Panel, set SEN = AUT (or 900°), SPR/DPR = 100 (or on) so the game can control damping if needed.
Success looks like: the control panel test shows smooth 0–100% axis movement and correct steering range.

Disable input conflicts (PC)

Steam: Library > F1 25 > Manage (gear icon) > Properties > Controller > set to Disable Steam Input (or “Use default” if the game has native support and works correctly).
Unplug extra controllers temporarily (gamepads, other HOTAS) to prevent auto-switching.
Success looks like: only one active device lights up when you move the wheel in the main menu.

Put the wheel into the correct hardware mode (consoles and PC)

Logitech G29/G920/G923: set platform switch to match your console; on PC use PS/PC mode as specified.
Thrustmaster bases (e.g., T300/T248/T818): ensure PS5/PC mode as appropriate (LED color per manual).
Fanatec: use PC mode (or PC Compatibility) on PC; Xbox mode on Xbox.
Success looks like: platform detects the wheel without generic naming or warnings.

Select the correct device preset in F1 25

Go to Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback.
In the device list, highlight your wheel by name (e.g., Logitech G923, Thrustmaster T300, Fanatec CSL DD). If missing, select Steering Wheel [Generic].
Press to Load or Create a preset for your wheel.
Success looks like: button prompts match your wheel brand and axes move on the calibration bars.

Rebind and verify axes (if needed)

Choose Edit Mappings (or Edit Assignments).
Bind Accelerate with your throttle pedal and Brake with your brake pedal by pressing each when prompted.
Make sure Steering responds smoothly left and right (no steps or snapping).
Success looks like: bars in the mapping screen sweep smoothly from 0% to 100% without spikes.

Calibrate in-game

Open Calibration.
Start values:
- Steering Deadzone: 0–1
- Steering Saturation: 0
- Steering Linearity: 0–5
- Throttle/Brake Deadzone: 0–2 (raise to 3–5 if there’s pedal noise)
- Throttle/Brake Saturation: 0
If you hit full lock too early, your rotation is too low or Steering Saturation is too high—set saturation to 0 and increase rotation in driver to 900–1080°.
If you can’t reach full lock, either lower driver rotation or slightly increase Steering Saturation (5–15) until full lock aligns with your preferred physical angle.
Success looks like: all axis bars travel smoothly 0–100 with no dead spots or sudden jumps.

Set basic Force Feedback

Go to Vibration & Force Feedback and ensure it’s On.
Good starting points:
- Strength/Overall: 55–65
- On-track Effects: 15–25
- Wheel Damper: 5–15
- Understeer Enhance (if available): Off or Low (personal preference)
- If your wheel supports Logitech TrueForce and a toggle exists, start Low/Medium.
Success looks like: clear centering feel, kerb detail without clipping, and no oscillation on straights.

Save your work

Save as a New Custom Preset and name it (e.g., “CSL-DD F125 v1”).
Back out and re-enter the menu to confirm the preset stays selected.
Success looks like: your custom name remains active after returning from track.

Test on track

Enter Time Trial (no AI variables).
In the garage, move the wheel: on the input HUD, verify steering, throttle, and brake bars are smooth.
Drive a straight: the car should track straight with the wheel centered; full lock should require a sensible, consistent rotation.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 wheel calibration not working

Using a USB hub: often causes power or dropout issues. Plug into the motherboard/console directly.
Leaving Steam Input enabled for a native-supported wheel: can cause double-binding or missing FFB.
Cranking Steering Saturation to “fix” rotation: this distorts steering geometry. Fix rotation at the driver first; use saturation only for fine-tuning.
Combined pedals enabled (Logitech/Thrustmaster): causes throttle/brake to fight each other. Use separate axes in wheel software.
Not saving a new preset: edits can revert when the game swaps devices.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

The calibration bars don’t move at all
- Likely cause: wrong hardware mode or Steam/console remapping conflict.
- Try: put wheel in proper PC/console mode; disable Steam Input; unplug other controllers; restart the game with the wheel powered on first.
Steering reaches full lock too early
- Likely cause: driver rotation too low or Steering Saturation too high.
- Try: set wheel rotation to 900–1080° in driver and Steering Saturation = 0.
Can’t reach full in-game lock even at big rotation
- Likely cause: driver rotation too high for your preference or saturation too low.
- Try: lower driver rotation (e.g., 540–720°) or increase Steering Saturation slightly (5–15) until it matches your desired physical angle.
Throttle or brake stuck/inverted/jittery
- Likely cause: combined pedals or noisy sensor.
- Try: disable “combined pedals” in wheel software; increase Deadzone to 3–5; rebind pedals; check cabling.
Force feedback missing
- Likely cause: wrong device profile or Steam Input override.
- Try: select the correct wheel preset, ensure Vibration & Force Feedback = On, Strength ~60; disable Steam Input; update firmware.
Wheel pulls off-center on straights
- Likely cause: incorrect wheel centering or damper/SPR conflicts.
- Try: recenter in wheel software/hardware; reduce Wheel Damper; ensure Auto-Center = by game.
Changes don’t save
- Likely cause: editing a default profile or input switching mid-session.
- Try: save as a new custom preset; avoid pressing buttons on other controllers; confirm after reloading the session.
Console not recognizing the wheel properly
- PS5: set Controllers > Communication Method > Use USB Cable. Ensure PS5 mode on the wheel.
- Xbox: wheel must be in Xbox mode; update firmware via PC if needed.

Note: Don’t max out force feedback strength to “force it to work.” Clipping masks detail and makes handling worse.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Keep two presets: one “baseline” and one “experiment.” If testing goes wrong, swap back instantly.
Match driver rotation to your preference (540–720° for quick steering, 900–1080° for realism); fine-tune with minimal Steering Saturation.
If you swap rims or pedal sets, re-open Calibration and just confirm bars move cleanly before racing.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run this quick checklist:

In Calibration, all axes sweep 0–100% smoothly with no spikes.
On track, the car drives straight with the wheel centered.
Full lock feels consistent with your physical rotation.
Throttle/brake register correctly and return to 0% at rest.
Force feedback is present, detailed, and not clipping in fast corners.
Your custom preset remains active after restarting the game.

F125 force feedback settings: dial in detail without clipping for your specific wheelbase.
F125 brake and pedal calibration: eliminate spikes, set deadzones right, and improve trail-braking.
F125 steering linearity and rotation: how to pick angles that suit your driving style and tracks.

Now that your F125 wheel calibration not working is resolved, the next big gains usually come from refining force feedback and braking. Dive into those guides next to unlock lap time and consistency.