F125 Moza settings

Learn about F125 Moza settings

Updated October 13, 2025

Getting the right F125 Moza settings can feel overwhelming. You plug in your Moza wheel, jump into F1 25, and the steering feels either too heavy, too light, or totally numb on kerbs. That happens because F1 25’s default profile isn’t tailored to direct-drive wheels, and Moza needs correct tuning both in Pit House and in-game. By the end of this guide, you’ll have a clean, repeatable setup that feels natural, fast, and consistent.

Quick Answer

Set your Moza base to 360° rotation, Linear FFB, low damping/friction, and moderate overall strength in Moza Pit House. In F1 25, enable Vibration & FFB, set Force Feedback Strength around 40–55, Wheel Damper 0–5, Understeer Enhance Off, and On-Track/Rumble 20–35. Calibrate steering/pedals, test in Time Trial, and fine-tune strength to avoid clipping.

Why F125 Moza settings Feels So Hard at First

F1 25’s defaults are tuned for weaker gear/belt wheels. A Moza direct-drive base can over-amplify or over-filter the same signals.
If your wheel rotation and damping don’t match between Moza Pit House and F1 25, you’ll get odd steering ratios, oscillation, or a dull center feel.

Promise: Follow the step-by-step below and you’ll get a stable, detailed wheel with proper weight, clear kerb detail, and predictable grip loss.

What F125 Moza settings Actually Means in F1 25

“F125 Moza settings” is the combination of:

Moza Pit House tuning (wheelbase firmware profile: rotation, overall strength, damping/friction/inertia, filters).
In-game F1 25 controls (calibration, deadzones/linearity, Force Feedback sliders).
Button mapping (ERS, DRS, Overtake, MFD), so you can drive without menu wrestling.

Think of it like this: Pit House shapes the raw motor behavior; F1 25 sends the driving “story” (grip, kerbs, understeer). Get both sides right and the car feels natural.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware: Moza wheelbase (R5/R9/R12/R16/R21), a Moza wheel rim, pedals, and a stable rig.
Software:
- Latest Moza Pit House installed; update firmware for base and wheel.
- F1 25 updated to the latest patch (PC; Moza is PC-focused).
- Steam Input disabled for F1 25 (to avoid input conflicts).
Game mode: Use Time Trial for clean testing (consistent fuel/tyres/track grip).
Menus you’ll use:
- Moza Pit House: Tuning page for your wheelbase profile.
- F1 25: Settings > Controls and Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 Moza settings

Update and prepare

Open Moza Pit House and update firmware for the base/rim.
Create a new profile named “F1 25”.
Exit other FFB tools/overlays (to prevent double-processing).

Set Moza Pit House (Driver) basics

Steering Angle: 360° (you can try 380° later if you want a touch more finesse).
FFB Mode: Linear.
Overall FFB Strength (starting points by base torque):
- R5 (≈5.5 Nm): 100%
- R9 (≈9 Nm): 80–90%
- R12 (≈12 Nm): 70–80%
- R16 (≈16 Nm): 60–70%
- R21 (≈21 Nm): 55–65%
Damping: 5–10 (keeps the wheel calm without hiding road feel).
Friction: 0–3 (only a hint, if any).
Inertia: 0–5 (light touch; too much will dull transitions).
Filters/Interpolation: Low (1–2) to keep detail crisp.
Slew Rate Limit: Off/Max (let the motor respond quickly).
Hands-Off/Center Protection: Conservative/Low; don’t disable safety completely.
“Road/Effects Equalizer” (if available): Keep at neutral—let the game handle effects.

Success check: Turning the wheel in Pit House should feel smooth, low-friction, and centered, with no gritty resistance or runaway oscillation.

Launch F1 25 cleanly

Power the wheelbase first, then start the game.
In Steam: Right-click F1 25 > Properties > Controller > Disable Steam Input for this title (prevents remap conflicts).

Select or create your control profile

Go to Settings > Controls.
If F1 25 shows a Moza preset, select it. If not:
- Add New Device/Profile > Custom Wheel.
- Map steering, throttle, brake, clutch if used.
- Map critical buttons: DRS, Overtake/ERS, MFD Next/Prev, Pit Limiter, Radio, Camera, Push-to-talk.

Calibrate and set inputs

Settings > Controls > Calibration:
- Steering: Turn fully left/right when prompted; confirm center.
- Pedals: Press each to 100% firmly.
Settings > Controls > (Your Wheel) > Edit:
- Steering Deadzone: 0
- Steering Saturation: 0 (use only if you cannot reach full lock)
- Steering Linearity: 0–5 (start 0 for linear feel)
- Throttle Deadzone: 0–1
- Brake Deadzone: 1–2 if your pedal has a little noise
- Brake Saturation: Adjust only if you cannot hit 100% under normal braking force.

F1 25 Vibration & Force Feedback settings (starting point)

Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback:
- Vibration & Force Feedback: On
- Force Feedback Strength: 40–55 (start at 45; lower-torque bases can go 50–55)
- On-Track Effects: 20–30
- Rumble Strip Effects: 25–35
- Off-Track Effects: 15–25
- Wheel Damper: 0–5 (avoid big values—Moza already provides damping)
- Understeer Enhance: Off
- Maximum Wheel Rotation: 360° (if this option appears; if greyed out, the driver value is used)
- Minimum Force (if present): 0–2 (DD wheels don’t need much)
Save your profile.

Success check: You should now see a Force Feedback Strength around 45 and rotation at 360°, with Understeer Enhance Off.

Test and fine-tune in Time Trial

Load a smooth track (e.g., Spain/Barcelona or Austria/Red Bull Ring).
Warm up, then make quick, small changes:
- If heavy cornering feels “capped” (no extra weight beyond a point), reduce in-game Force Feedback Strength by 3–5 to avoid clipping.
- If overall weight is too light but details are good, increase Overall FFB Strength in Pit House slightly (not the in-game strength).
- If the wheel chatters on straights, increase Pit House Damping by 2–3 or reduce in-game Wheel Damper to 0–2 to avoid double damping.
- If kerbs are too sharp, lower Rumble Strip Effects by 5–10.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 Moza settings

Using 900° rotation: F1 cars use small steering angles; run 360° (or 380° max) for precision.
Cranking Wheel Damper high in-game: You’ll smother detail and add input lag; keep it 0–5.
Turning on Understeer Enhance: It fakes extra weight and hides real front-tyre info; leave it Off.
Copying settings 1:1 across all Moza bases: Torque differs—match strength to your base and your preference.
Chasing “road feel” with driver-side filters: Let F1 25 provide effects; keep Pit House filters modest.
Ignoring calibration: Uncalibrated pedals/steering cause weird inputs and inconsistent braking/turn-in.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

Wheel not detected in F1 25
- Likely cause: Driver/USB or Steam Input conflict.
- Fixes:
  - Power the base before launching the game.
  - Disable Steam Input for F1 25.
  - Replug USB to a USB 3.0 port directly on the PC (avoid hubs).
  - In F1 25, create a Custom Wheel profile and remap.
No force feedback but inputs work
- Likely cause: FFB disabled or blocked by another app.
- Fixes:
  - Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback: set On.
  - Close other FFB tools (overlays, telemetry apps with FFB output).
  - Reapply your Moza profile in Pit House and restart the game.
Steering too sensitive or not enough lock
- Likely cause: Rotation mismatch.
- Fixes:
  - Set 360° in Pit House and 360° in-game (if available).
  - Ensure Steering Saturation is 0.
  - Recalibrate steering axis.
Wheel oscillates on straights
- Likely cause: Overly low damping or high in-game damper interplay.
- Fixes:
  - Increase Pit House Damping to 8–12.
  - Keep in-game Wheel Damper 0–3.
  - Slightly lower in-game Force Feedback Strength if needed.
FFB feels capped or “flat” mid-corner (clipping)
- Likely cause: In-game FFB Strength too high.
- Fixes:
  - Reduce in-game Force Feedback Strength by 3–5.
  - Keep Pit House Overall Strength moderate; don’t only raise driver strength.
Kerbs feel like machine-gun vibration
- Likely cause: Rumble too high or high-frequency filter off.
- Fixes:
  - Reduce Rumble Strip Effects to 20–30.
  - Add 1–2 points of filter/interpolation in Pit House.
Settings don’t apply after leaving the garage
- Likely cause: Profile not saved.
- Fix:
  - Save your Control Preset in F1 25 and your Moza profile in Pit House.

Note: Don’t max every slider “for realism.” Direct-drive wheels do not need minimum force or big dampers—those are band-aids for weaker wheels.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Per-track tweaks: Bumpy tracks (e.g., Jeddah, Baku) may feel better with On-Track Effects −5 and Wheel Damper +1–2.
ERS/DRS workflow: Map Overtake, DRS, and MFD shortcuts to easily reachable buttons or encoders; the less time in menus, the faster you’ll be.
Strength balancing rule: Adjust “feel” with in-game Force Feedback Strength. Adjust “ceiling” with Pit House Overall Strength. Avoid changing both at once.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run a 5–10 lap Time Trial test and check:

Steering ratio is consistent: 90° on your wheel ≈ 90° in-game; soft lock at 360° feels natural.
Straight-line stability: The wheel sits calm on the straight; no wobble or hands-off oscillation.
Clear car language: You can feel rear steps on throttle, front washout on entry, and kerb texture without rattling.
No clipping sensation: Heavier load feels progressively heavier, not “capped.”
Consistency: Your lap times settle within a few tenths without fighting the car.

If all five are true, your F125 Moza settings are dialed in.

F125 pedal calibration and braking: Now that your wheel is sorted, the biggest time gain is braking consistency.
F125 camera/field-of-view setup: Better depth and apex judgment = fewer mistakes.
F125 wet-weather driving basics: Keep the good FFB feel while taming traction in the rain.

What F125 Moza settings Means in F1 25

In short: it’s the harmony between Moza Pit House (motor behavior) and F1 25’s FFB model (what the tyres/chassis “say”). Get rotation matched (360°), keep filters light, run Understeer Enhance Off, and balance strength to avoid clipping. That’s the foundation for smooth, predictable pace.