F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide

Learn about F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide

Updated October 23, 2025

If you’ve opened the Fanatec tuning menu on your wheel and F1 25 still feels numb, notchy, or wildly oscillatory—take a breath. You’re not alone. The F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide can feel confusing because F1 uses multiple force channels and expects certain wheelbase settings. This guide will get you to a stable, fast baseline and show you exactly what to change and why.

Quick Answer

Set your Fanatec base to a clean, per‑game profile with SEN Auto, FF 100, FFS Peak, NDP around 25–35, NFR/NIN 0, INT 3–4, FEI 80–100, SPR 100, DPR 100. Then in F1 25, enable Vibration & FFB, set Strength 55–70 (8 Nm), Understeer Enhance Off, Wheel Damper 0–5, kerb effects 15–30. Calibrate steering and pedals.

You’re juggling two layers: the on‑wheel Fanatec tuning menu and the in‑game F1 25 FFB sliders. If either is off, the other can’t fix it.
F1 25 uses damper and spring channels (DPR/SPR) for key behaviors like soft lock and wheel weight. If those are disabled, the wheel feels wrong.

By the end, you’ll know exactly which Fanatec settings F1 25 expects, how to set the in‑game sliders, and how to troubleshoot common issues.

Plain English first:

The Fanatec tuning menu is the profile that lives on your wheelbase (P1–P5). It shapes how the motor behaves.
F1 25’s FFB sliders tell the game how hard to push the wheel and which effects to send (road, kerbs, damper).
They must match. The base should pass through the game’s real forces cleanly; the game should control the overall strength.

Short technical notes:

FF vs FOR: On Fanatec, FF is motor output limit; FOR is the game’s force channel scaling. Run both at 100 so F1 sets the overall strength.
SPR/DPR: F1 25 uses these for soft lock and basic damping/centering effects. Set both to 100 so the game can use them.
NDP/NFR/NIN/INT/FEI: Base‑side smoothing and feel. Use modest NDP and low INT to stabilize without killing detail.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware:
- Fanatec wheelbase (CSL DD/GT DD Pro/CS DD/DD1/DD2), compatible Fanatec wheel, and pedals.
- USB/console mode set correctly (PC mode on PC; PS/Xbox mode on console).
Software:
- Latest Fanatec firmware (Fanatec Control Panel/Firmware Manager).
- F1 25 updated to the latest patch.
- Optional: FanaLab closed for first setup (avoid double‑tuning).
Game menus you’ll use:
- Settings > Controls, Calibration & Vibration
- Settings > Controls > Your Wheel Profile > Vibration & Force Feedback
- Settings > Controls > Button Functions (to map MFD, Overtake/ERS, Diff, Brake Bias)

Here’s a safe, fast baseline for most Fanatec DD bases in F1 25. We’ll apply it step‑by‑step below.

On‑wheel (Fanatec Tuning Menu):
- SEN: Auto
- FF: 100
- FFS: Peak (Linear is optional on high‑torque bases)
- NDP: 25–35 (20 on DD1/DD2; 30–35 on CSL DD)
- NFR: 0
- NIN: 0
- INT: 3–4
- FEI: 80–100 (80 if harsh on kerbs; 100 if you want maximum crispness)
- FOR: 100
- SPR: 100
- DPR: 100
- BLI/BRF: Set for preference and proper brake calibration
In‑game (F1 25):
- Vibration & Force Feedback: On
- Strength:
  - 5 Nm (CSL DD): 70–85
  - 8 Nm (CSL DD/GT DD Pro Boost): 55–70
  - 12–15 Nm (CS DD/DD1/DD2): 40–60
- On‑Track Effects: 15–25
- Rumble Strip: 20–30
- Off‑Track Effects: 10–20
- Wheel Damper: 0–5
- Understeer Enhance: Off (for wheels)
- Steering deadzone/linearity/saturation: 0/0/0
- Calibrate steering and pedals

Update and connect correctly

On PC: Open Fanatec Control Panel > Firmware Manager > update base, wheel, pedals.
On console: Ensure the base is in the correct console mode (LED color per manual).
Success looks like: Base, wheel, and pedals all show as up to date; wheel inputs visible in Control Panel (PC).

Create a clean wheel profile (P1) for F1 25

Press the wheel’s Tuning/Menu button to open the Tuning Menu.
Select profile P1 (or any free slot) and set:
- SEN Auto, FF 100, FFS Peak, NDP 25–35, NFR 0, NIN 0, INT 3–4, FEI 80–100, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100.
Save/exit the tuning menu.
Success looks like: The display shows your chosen values, and they persist after power cycle.

Set in‑game device and calibration

Open F1 25 > Settings > Controls, Calibration & Vibration.
Choose your Fanatec wheel profile (may be “Custom” or “Fanatec…”).
Calibrate steering:
- Follow the on‑screen steps; turn fully left/right when asked.
- With SEN Auto, F1 will soft‑lock you to the correct rotation (typically ~360–420°).
Calibrate pedals:
- Press brake to your real driving pressure. If you hit 100% too early/late, adjust BRF on the wheel or in Fanatec Control Panel, then recalibrate.
Success looks like: Steering centers at 0, soft lock engages near full lock, brake hits 100% only at your intended pressure.

Set FFB sliders

Go to Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback and set:
- Vibration & FFB: On
- Strength: Set per your torque:
  - 5 Nm: 70–85
  - 8 Nm: 55–70
  - 12–15 Nm: 40–60
- On‑Track Effects: 15–25
- Rumble Strip: 20–30
- Off‑Track Effects: 10–20
- Wheel Damper: 0–5
- Understeer Enhance: Off
- Deadzone/Linearity/Saturation: 0/0/0
Success looks like: In the garage, the wheel feels reasonably weighty, not sticky; on track, kerbs buzz with detail and the wheel recenters smoothly on straights.

Map essentials for race control

Go to Controls > Button Functions.
Map:
- MFD open/confirm, ERS/Overtake, Brake Bias, Differential, Radio, Pit Limiter.
If your wheel has a multi‑position switch, set its behavior (MPS “ENC/Auto”) on the wheel and assign in‑game.
Success looks like: You can change BB/Diff mid‑corner without menu fumbling.

Test and micro‑adjust

Run Time Trial at a track you know (e.g., Spain).
If oscillation appears on straights: raise NDP by +5 or add Wheel Damper +2 (keep small changes).
If kerbs are too harsh: lower FEI to ~80 or reduce Rumble Strip by 5–10.
If corner detail is weak: increase Strength by +5 or reduce NDP by −5 (avoid clipping).
Success looks like: Stable straights, progressive weight in fast corners, kerbs feel textured not teeth‑chattering.

Running SPR/DPR at 0: In F1 25 this kills soft lock and expected damping/weight. Keep both at 100.
Setting SEN to 1080: You’ll over‑rotate and the car will feel vague. Use SEN Auto and calibrate.
Turning Understeer Enhance On: It masks front‑end feel. Leave it Off for wheels.
Cranking in‑game Wheel Damper high: Makes the wheel sluggish and hides detail. Keep it 0–5 and use NDP for stability.
Over‑using NFR/NIN: Adds “drag” that dulls micro‑detail. Start at 0.
Setting FF below 100 on the base: Starves the motor; control global weight with the in‑game Strength slider instead.
Ignoring Brake Force (BRF): If 100% arrives too early or late, your consistency dies. Tune BRF, then recalibrate.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

The wheel isn’t detected in F1 25
- Likely cause: Wrong USB/console mode or missing drivers.
- Fix: Set base to the correct mode (PC/PS/Xbox), update firmware, plug directly into console/PC. On Steam, disable Steam Input for F1 25 (Controller > Override: Off).
No soft lock / wheel is light in menus
- Likely cause: SPR/DPR not at 100.
- Fix: Set SPR 100, DPR 100 on the wheel; restart the game.
Wheel oscillates on straights
- Likely cause: Too little damping or high caster‑like self‑aligning torque at speed.
- Fix: Increase NDP by +5 (up to ~40), or set Wheel Damper to 2–5. Ensure Understeer Enhance Off.
Kerbs feel like jackhammers
- Likely cause: FEI too high or effects too strong.
- Fix: FEI 80–90, reduce Rumble Strip and On‑Track Effects by 5–10.
FFB clips (feels flat at peak loads)
- Likely cause: In‑game Strength too high for your torque.
- Fix: Reduce Strength by 5–10. Keep FF 100 / FOR 100 on the base. If available, check force meter in Fanatec Control Panel.
Changes don’t seem to apply
- Likely cause: Wrong profile active or unsaved.
- Fix: Confirm you’re editing the active Fanatec profile (P1–P5) and re‑open to verify values. In game, ensure you edited the correct control preset and saved.
Console players: wrong button prompts or no FFB
- Likely cause: Base not in the correct console mode.
- Fix: Switch to the platform mode indicated in your base manual (LED color), then relaunch F1 25.

Note: Don’t max every slider “for realism.” Over‑damped or over‑strong settings reduce detail and consistency.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

High‑torque bases (CS DD, DD1/DD2): Try FFS Linear with slightly lower in‑game Strength for ultra‑predictable load buildup.
Two stability paths: Prefer base‑side damping (NDP 25–35) with Wheel Damper 0–3; only add more in‑game damper if you still oscillate.
Per‑track quick tweaks: High‑kerb tracks (Monza, Austria) – reduce Rumble Strip by 5–10. Bumpy tracks – add On‑Track Effects +5 if you want more texture.
Save multiple Fanatec profiles: P1 “Race,” P2 “Endurance” (more damping), P3 “Wet” (slightly lower Strength for finesse).

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run a 5‑lap stint in Time Trial or Grand Prix and check:

Straights: No oscillation; wheel recenters cleanly.
Fast corners: Progressive weight; you can feel the front loading before understeer.
Kerbs: Clear texture without pain; no rattly chatter over every seam.
Locks: Soft lock engages near full steering without bouncing.
Braking: You reach 98–100% brake only at your intended pressure.

If all five feel right, your FFB is dialed for F1 25.

Now that your F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide is dialed in, the next big gain usually comes from braking. Read our guide on F125 braking technique.
Want more consistency in traffic? Check F125 traction and throttle control.
Ready to optimize pace? See our F125 Time Trial to Race Pace transfer guide.

F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide

Quick Answer

Why F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide Feels So Hard at First

What F125 Fanatec tuning menu guide Actually Means in F1 25

Before You Start (Prerequisites)