best F125 Logitech G923 settings

Learn about best F125 Logitech G923 settings


Updated October 1, 2025

If you’re fighting the car, numb on corner entry, or your arms ache after five laps, you’re not alone. Dialing in the best F125 Logitech G923 settings can be confusing because F1 25 expects a low-rotation, high-detail setup while the G923 defaults are too “road car.” By the end of this guide, you’ll have a proven baseline and know exactly how to tweak it for your style.

Quick Answer

Set your G923 to 360° rotation and reduce damping. In F1 25 go to Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback and start with: FFB Strength 80, On-Track 35, Rumble 30, Off-Track 20, Wheel Damper 5, Understeer Enhance Off, Max Wheel Rotation 360°. Calibrate pedals with Brake Saturation ~12 and Brake Linearity ~10. Test in Time Trial.

Why best F125 Logitech G923 settings Feels So Hard at First

  • The G923 ships with 900° rotation and heavier damping—great for road sims, not for razor‑sharp F1 steering.
  • F1 25’s physics deliver most detail near the center. If rotation/damper are off, you’ll get dead zones, clipping, and arm-wrestling instead of feel.

Promise: Follow the steps below and your steering will feel precise, curbs will “speak,” and braking will be easier to modulate without lockups.

What best F125 Logitech G923 settings Actually Means in F1 25

You’re tuning three things:

  • Steering geometry: How far you turn the wheel versus the front tires (rotation, linearity, saturation).
  • Force feedback: The strength and texture of forces from tires, suspension, and aero (FFB strength, track/rumble/off-track, damping, understeer).
  • Pedal response: How your feet translate to brake/throttle in-game (deadzone, saturation, linearity).

Plain language:

  • Rotation controls how “quick” the steering feels. F1 cars use low rotation (around 360°).
  • FFB strength is overall weight. On-Track/Rumble/Off-Track are surface details. Damper is “heaviness.” Understeer Enhance softens forces when the front slides.
  • Pedal saturation helps you reach 100% without stomping; linearity shapes how quickly input ramps up.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

  • Hardware:
    • Logitech G923 wheel and pedals, firmly mounted.
    • Optional: separate shifter (not essential for F1).
  • Software:
    • F1 25 updated to the latest patch.
    • PC: Logitech G HUB installed and firmware up to date.
  • Game mode to test: Time Trial (consistent grip, fuel, and weather).
  • Menus you’ll use:
    • Settings > Controls, Calibration & Vibration
    • Controls > Edit Device > Vibration & Force Feedback
    • Controls > Edit Device > Calibration
    • Controls > Bindings

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve best F125 Logitech G923 settings

  1. Update and Prepare the Wheel (PC)
  • Open Logitech G HUB.
  • Update firmware if prompted.
  • In your G923 profile:
    • Set Operating Range to 360°.
    • Sensitivity 50 (default).
    • Centering Spring Off (or 0%).
    • Enable “Allow Game To Adjust Settings” if available.
    • If a TrueForce slider appears, leave it at default; F1 25 uses its own FFB pipeline. Success check: Turning your physical wheel should show 360° total in G HUB.

Console note: You won’t use G HUB. The in-game “Maximum Wheel Rotation” will control steering.

  1. Disable Conflicts (PC only)
  • In Steam: Library > F1 25 > Manage > Controller, set Steam Input for this title to “Disable” or “Use default” so the game sees the wheel natively.
  • Unplug other gamepads if you get double inputs.
  1. Select the Correct Device Profile
  • Open Settings > Controls, Calibration & Vibration.
  • Highlight your Logitech G923 profile (it may show as “Logitech G29/G920/G923” depending on platform).
  • If it’s missing, create a new wheel profile and detect inputs.
  1. Set Vibration & Force Feedback (the good baseline)
  • Go to Controls > Edit Device > Vibration & Force Feedback:
    • Vibration & Force Feedback: On
    • Vibration & FFB Strength: 80
    • On-Track Effects: 35
    • Rumble Strip Effects: 30
    • Off-Track Effects: 20
    • Wheel Damper: 5 (go 8–10 if you get oscillation)
    • Understeer Enhance: Off (try On later if you want clearer “push” feel)
    • Maximum Wheel Rotation: 360° Success check: You should feel detailed curb texture without the wheel slamming your hands on high-speed corners.
  1. Calibrate Steering and Pedals
  • Go to Controls > Edit Device > Calibration:
    • Steering Deadzone: 0
    • Steering Saturation: 0
    • Steering Linearity: 0 (try 5 if you want a softer center)
    • Throttle Deadzone: 0–2 (start 0)
    • Throttle Saturation: 0
    • Throttle Linearity: 0
    • Brake Deadzone: 2 (prevents micro-input)
    • Brake Saturation: 12 (range 8–18 depending on leg strength; aim to hit 100% with firm press)
    • Brake Linearity: 10 (smoother initial bite)
  • Fully press each pedal once so the game sees your maximum. Success check: Telemetry bars reach 100% throttle/brake with a firm but comfortable push.
  1. Map Critical Buttons
  • Controls > Bindings:
    • ERS Overtake/Deploy
    • DRS
    • Brake Bias +/-
    • Differential On/Off throttle adjustments
    • MFD/Confirm
    • Look Left/Right (optional but handy) Success check: On-track, you can toggle DRS and quickly adjust brake bias.
  1. Test in Time Trial (clean environment)
  • Pick a smooth circuit (Spain, Austria, or Bahrain).
  • Run 5–10 laps.
  • If the wheel is too heavy: drop FFB Strength by -5 steps.
  • If it’s too light or vague: raise FFB Strength by +5 or increase On-Track Effects by +5.
  • If the wheel self-oscillates on straights: raise Wheel Damper to 8–10 or set Steering Linearity to 5. Success check: Steering is precise, car is catchable on exits, and you can feel curb edges without jolts.

Common Mistakes and Myths About best F125 Logitech G923 settings

  • “900° is more realistic.” Myth for F1. Use ~360°; it matches the car’s short steering rack.
  • Maxing FFB is better. No—high values clip details and just feel heavy. Start 70–85.
  • Understeer Enhance must be On. Preference. Off is more authentic; On can help beginners sense front wash-out.
  • High damper = stability. Too much damper kills detail and makes catching slides harder. Keep it low (5–10).
  • Ignore brake calibration. The stock G923 brake is stiff. Use Saturation and Linearity to reliably hit 100% without standing on it.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

  • Wheel feels dead around center

    • Likely cause: Too much damper or too low FFB Strength.
    • Fix: Reduce Wheel Damper to 3–5; raise FFB Strength to 80–85; try Steering Linearity 5.

  • Wheel chatters or oscillates on straights

    • Likely cause: Low damper, high FFB, or toe settings in setup.
    • Fix: Increase Wheel Damper to 8–10; reduce FFB Strength by 5; in setups, avoid extreme toe-out.
    • Note: Don’t grip the wheel to “fight it”—tune the damper instead.

  • Can’t reach 100% brake without pain

    • Likely cause: Stock G923 elastomer is stiff.
    • Fix: Raise Brake Saturation to 15–18; raise Brake Linearity to 12–15; consider a load-cell mod long term.

  • Too sensitive on corner entry

    • Likely cause: Rotation too low for your taste or linearity too sharp.
    • Fix: Try Steering Linearity 5–10; if needed, increase Maximum Wheel Rotation to 380–400°.

  • Curbs are crazy loud and spiky

    • Likely cause: High Rumble Strip/On-Track effects.
    • Fix: Drop Rumble to 20–25; On-Track to 30.

  • Changes don’t apply

    • Likely cause: Wrong device profile or unsaved settings.
    • Fix: Ensure you’re editing the G923 profile; press Save/Apply before exiting the menu; restart the session.
    • Note: If settings reset on PC, disable Steam Input for the game.

  • No force feedback at all

    • Likely cause: USB power issue or driver conflict.
    • Fix: Use a powered USB port (rear I/O on PC), avoid hubs, confirm G HUB detects the wheel, and relaunch F1 25.

What not to do:

  • Don’t set FFB Strength to 100 “for realism.” It clips detail and tires you out.
  • Don’t use 0–1 Brake Saturation on a stock G923—hard to hit full brake consistently.
  • Don’t leave rotation at 900°; the car will feel like a bus.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Track tailoring:
    • Bumpy tracks (Monaco, Singapore): lower On-Track/Rumble by ~5 to reduce harshness.
    • Smooth tracks (Monza, Silverstone): you can raise On-Track +5 for more surface feel.
  • Mid-corner push feedback:
    • If you can’t feel front-end wash-out, try Understeer Enhance On, or raise FFB Strength by +5.
  • Fine-tune brake feel:
    • If you lock often, lower Brake Saturation by 2 and raise Brake Linearity by 2 to soften initial application.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run a 10-lap Time Trial stint and check:

  • You can correct small snaps on exit without overcorrection.
  • You can feel when curbs are stepped vs. flat without painful jolts.
  • You reach 100% brake on the HUD with a firm, repeatable press.
  • Straight-line driving is stable with hands light on the wheel (no wobble).
  • Your lap times are consistent within ~0.5s once the tires are warm.
  • F125 brake bias and trail braking: Learn how to stop locking fronts while rotating the car.
  • F125 controller vs. wheel assists: Choose assists that speed up learning without masking bad habits.
  • F125 car setup basics: How camber, toe, and suspension affect feel (and what to tweak for curb stability).

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve best F125 Logitech G923 settings (Quick Reference Values)

  • G HUB (PC): 360° rotation, Centering Spring Off, Sensitivity 50, Allow Game to Adjust On.
  • In-game Vibration & FFB:
    • Strength 80
    • On-Track 35
    • Rumble 30
    • Off-Track 20
    • Wheel Damper 5 (8–10 if oscillation)
    • Understeer Enhance Off
    • Max Wheel Rotation 360°
  • Calibration:
    • Steering DZ 0 | Sat 0 | Lin 0–5
    • Throttle DZ 0–2 | Sat 0 | Lin 0
    • Brake DZ 2 | Sat ~12 | Lin ~10

These are your safe, fast, comfortable starting points. Adjust in small steps of 2–5 and re-test in Time Trial after each change.

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