should I use assists to get faster in F125

Learn about should I use assists to get faster in F125

If you’re wondering should I use assists to get faster in F125, you’re not alone. Early on, it’s normal to feel stuck: with assists off you spin, with assists on you feel slow. F1 25’s physics punish tiny mistakes in throttle and braking, so assists change how the car behaves. This guide will show you exactly which assists to use now, how to remove them step-by-step, and how to know you’re getting faster.

Quick Answer

Use assists early to build consistency, then remove them one at a time. Start with Steering/Braking Assist off, keep Racing Line (Corners Only), ABS on, Traction Control on Medium, and Automatic Gears on. As you stabilize, move to Manual Gears, then reduce Traction Control, then turn ABS off. The fastest laps come with fewer assists—after you’re consistent.

should I use assists to get faster in F125

Yes—at first. Assists are training wheels that let you learn lines, braking points, and throttle control without constant spins. To be truly fast, you’ll phase most of them out. The key is a ladder: remove one assist at a time only after you’re consistent, and measure your progress in Time Trial.

Why should I use assists to get faster in F125 Feels So Hard at First

F1 25 simulates aggressive torque, sensitive brakes, and limited grip. Assists mask these challenges but can limit peak pace. Turning them all off too soon overwhelms your inputs; leaving them all on caps your potential. The fix: a structured progression.

What should I use assists to get faster in F125 Actually Means in F1 25

“Using assists” means toggling the in-game Driving Assists that alter car control. You’ll find them under:

• From the main menu or pause menu: Settings > Assists

Core assists and how they affect pace and consistency:

• Traction Control (Off / Medium / Full)
  • Helps: Prevents rear wheelspin on exit.
  • Cost: Cuts power; Full TC is slowest in the dry. Medium is a solid controller-friendly compromise.
• ABS (On / Off)
  • Helps: Prevents wheel lock-ups.
  • Cost: Slightly longer braking distances and less rotation from trail-braking. Turning it off can be faster once you can modulate pressure.
• Automatic Gears (On / Off)
  • Helps: Simplicity.
  • Cost: Late upshifts, missed short-shifts, less engine braking. Manual gears are a big pace unlock once learned.
• Dynamic Racing Line (Full / Corners Only / Off)
  • Helps: Teaches braking points and apexes.
  • Cost: Line can be conservative and not always optimal. “Corners Only” is the best learning setting.
• ERS/DRS Assist (On / Off; availability can vary by mode)
  • Helps: Automates energy deployment and DRS presses.
  • Cost: Manual DRS/ERS can yield better timings and extra lap time when executed well.
• Pit Assist / Pit Release Assist (On / Off)
  • Helps: Safer pit entries/exits while learning.
  • Cost: No in-lap or out-lap optimization. Not relevant to hotlaps, but matters in races.
• Steering Assist / Braking Assist (On / Off)
  • Helps: Corrects inputs.
  • Cost: Severely limits control and pace. Turn these off from day one.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

• Hardware:
  • Controller or wheel/pedals (both are fine; advice below covers both).
  • Map buttons for DRS, ERS (Overtake), Gear Up/Down.
• Game mode:
  • Use Time Trial to learn: stable weather, equal fuel/tyres, and a ghost for comparison.
  • Use Grand Prix (short races) later to practice tyre wear and fuel.
• Menus you’ll use:
  • Settings > Assists
  • Settings > Controls > Edit (to map buttons and adjust deadzones/linearity)
  • Time Trial > Ghost Options (to enable a comparable ghost)

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve should I use assists to get faster in F125

1. Create a clean test environment

• Open Time Trial.
• Pick a “teaching track” with mixed corners (Austria, Spain, or Bahrain are great).
• In Ghost Options, select a ghost near your ability (e.g., your own best or a slightly faster one).
• Success looks like: consistent track conditions with a visible ghost reference.

2. Set a sensible baseline assist preset

• Go to Settings > Assists and use:
  • Steering Assist: Off
  • Braking Assist: Off
  • Dynamic Racing Line: Corners Only
  • Traction Control: Medium (Full if you’re spinning constantly; plan to move to Medium soon)
  • ABS: On
  • Automatic Gears: On
  • DRS Assist: On (for now)
  • ERS Assist: On (if available in your mode)
  • Pit Assists: On (irrelevant in TT, helpful in early races)
• Do 8–10 laps to set a baseline. Note your best and average lap times.
• Success looks like: you can complete 5 consecutive valid laps without spins.

3. Move to Manual Gears

• Settings > Assists > Automatic Gears: Off
• Settings > Controls > Edit: map Gear Up/Down to comfortable inputs.
• Drill:
  • Upshift when your rev LEDs are nearly full.
  • Downshift progressively into braking zones; don’t spam downshifts.
  • Practice short-shifting (upshift early) on corner exit to tame wheelspin.
• Do 8–10 laps. You should match or beat your baseline within a few sessions.
• Success looks like: clean up/down shifts, fewer over-revving moments, smoother exits.

4. Optimize traction

• If you were on Full TC, go to Medium. If you’re already on Medium and consistent, try Off.
• Focus cues:
  • Feather the throttle from 0–50% on exits; don’t stab to 100%.
  • Short-shift 2nd to 3rd on traction-limited exits.
  • Unwind steering as you add throttle (less steering = more available traction).
• Aim for 10 clean laps with minimal wheelspin on exits.
• Success looks like: exits feel stable, fewer traction-warning vibrations, better delta out of slow corners.

5. Graduate ABS off (optional pace step)

• Turn ABS: Off only when your braking points are consistent.
• Braking cues:
  • Squeeze to near maximum pressure quickly, then release as you turn in (trail-brake).
  • If you feel lock-up (vibration/scrub), ease pressure slightly.
• Struggling? It’s okay to keep ABS On for races while you learn trail-braking in Time Trial.
• Success looks like: a slightly later, firmer initial brake with controlled release; better rotation.

6. Take manual control of race systems

• DRS Assist: Off; hit DRS in the marked zones.
• ERS Assist (if available): Off; map “ERS Overtake” and use on main straights and key acceleration zones.
• Focus on timing rather than spamming—deploying at higher speeds yields better gains.
• Success looks like: you never miss a DRS zone, and ERS doesn’t run out prematurely.

7. Validate under race conditions

• Create a 25% Grand Prix with the same assists you’re using in TT.
• Objectives:
  • Finish a race distance without spins.
  • Keep lap-time variance under 0.8s on clean air laps.
• Success looks like: consistent tyre-friendly exits and repeatable braking references.

Common Mistakes and Myths About should I use assists to get faster in F125

• Myth: “All assists are slow.” Reality: Some cost very little time for big consistency gains (e.g., Medium TC on controller, ABS On while learning).
• Mistake: Turning everything off at once. Result: spins, frustration, no learning signal.
• Mistake: Blindly following the full Racing Line. It’s conservative; use it to learn markers, not to copy forever.
• Mistake: Ignoring control settings. Uncalibrated deadzones/linearity make throttle and brake impossible to modulate.
• Mistake: Practicing only in races. Time Trial isolates variables; use it for clean comparisons.
• Mistake: Full TC in the dry forever. It heavily cuts acceleration; aim for Medium then Off as you improve.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

• I spin every time with TC Off
  • Likely cause: adding throttle while still steering heavily.
  • Fix: Go back to Medium TC; practice unwinding the wheel before full throttle; short-shift on exits. Consider slightly reducing throttle linearity or adding a tiny throttle deadzone for smoother inputs (Settings > Controls > Edit).
• I lock the fronts with ABS Off
  • Likely cause: too much initial brake, not releasing as you turn.
  • Fix: Squeeze then release (trail-brake). If needed, in Car Setup, reduce Brake Pressure slightly or move Brake Bias rearward 1–2% for stability. Don’t overdo it—extremes can hurt stopping distances.
• My lap times got worse after switching to Manual Gears
  • Likely cause: late upshifts, missed short-shifts, or too many downshifts.
  • Fix: Watch rev LEDs; upshift a touch earlier; practice short-shifting on low-grip exits; downshift progressively.
• My DRS/ERS presses don’t register
  • Likely cause: unbound controls or wrong mode.
  • Fix: Settings > Controls > Edit > Bind DRS and ERS (Overtake). Ensure assists that automate them are off if you want manual control.
• Assists don’t change or are greyed out
  • Likely cause: Session or lobby restrictions.
  • Fix: Change them from the main menu or in a single-player session. Some online lobbies restrict assists—join an assists-allowed lobby for practice.
• The car still won’t turn in
  • Likely cause: Trail-braking technique or braking too much while turned.
  • Fix: Ease off the brake as you add steering; focus on slower corner entries, faster exits. Consider keeping ABS On while practicing trail-braking.

Note: Don’t max out any control slider “just because.” Extreme deadzones, saturation, or linearity can make the car unpredictable—small changes first.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

• Manual gears for traction: Short-shift on exits to tame wheelspin; use lower gears longer only if it doesn’t induce oversteer.
• Use Corners Only line to wean off visual aids: Identify real markers (50/100 boards, trackside ads, marshal posts).
• Ghost strategy: Chase a ghost that’s 0.3–0.7s faster than you. When you beat it, pick the next one.
• Wet practice: Keep some assists (e.g., Medium TC, ABS On) in heavy rain until you master gentle inputs.
• Controller-specific: Medium TC can be a long-term choice and still be competitive. Focus on smooth thumb inputs and short-shifting.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Use this checklist:

• You can complete 10 Time Trial laps with no spins and a variance under 0.5–0.8s.
• With Manual Gears and at least Medium TC, your best lap matches or beats your original baseline.
• If you turned ABS Off, you brake later without frequent lock-ups and rotate better into apexes.
• You consistently hit DRS zones and manage ERS without running empty too soon.
• In a 25% race, you can finish cleanly with steady pace.

Next Steps and Related Guides

• F125 braking technique: Turn consistent stops into lap time, with or without ABS.
• F125 throttle and traction control: Detailed drills for exits with TC Medium/Off.
• F125 controller and wheel settings: Deadzones, linearity, and FFB for smoother inputs.

Now that your should I use assists to get faster in F125 plan is dialed in, the next big gain usually comes from improving your braking technique. Check out our guide on F125 braking technique next.