F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes

Learn about F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes

Updated October 21, 2025

Feeling fed up with spins, penalties, or angry lobbies over F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes? You’re not alone. In F1 25, late-brake “sends” are tempting because the cars stop fast—but dirty air, offline grip, and unpredictable rivals make them risky. This guide shows you exactly how to make clean, repeatable passes and stop getting into avoidable incidents.

Quick Answer

Clean passes in F1 25 come from preparation, not last‑second lunges. Get within 1.0s for DRS, save ERS to attack, move early to the inside/outside, brake slightly later—but still under control—stay on your line, and leave a car’s width. Avoid sending from multiple car lengths back; set up exits and pass where heavy braking allows.

Why F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes Feels So Hard at First

Following another car changes your braking: slipstream shortens your stopping distance and dirty air reduces front grip, especially on the inside line.
Offline grip is worse. The inside “divebomb” line is dusty; braking there like you would on the racing line leads to understeer into your rival.
AI and online players brake at different points. What is safe vs. AI 75 might be chaos at AI 95 or in ranked lobbies.
F1 25’s penalty/damage systems punish contact. Even light taps can give you wing damage and time penalties.

By the end of this guide, you’ll know how to spot good passing zones, time ERS/DRS, choose the right line, and execute overtakes that stick—without contact.

What F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes Actually Means in F1 25

Divebombing: Braking far too late from too far back, forcing your car down the inside without being meaningfully alongside by turn‑in. Often causes understeer, contact, or penalties.
Clean overtake: You’re alongside by turn‑in (front axle at least level with their cockpit), you brake within the car’s limits, hold your chosen line, and leave a car’s width at apex and exit.

A simple rule of thumb:

If you can’t be materially alongside by the apex, don’t send it. Set up the exit and try again at the next big stop.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware: Controller or wheel/pedals. Either works—just make sure your brake is calibrated.
Game Version/Mode: F1 25, latest patch. Practice in:
- Time Trial (markers and braking practice)
- Grand Prix vs. AI (racecraft)
- Multiplayer social/league (apply under pressure)
Menus you’ll use:
- Settings > Assists
- Settings > Controls
- Settings > On‑Screen Display
- Session Settings > Rules & Flags, Damage
- Car Setup (Brake Pressure, Wings, Differential)

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes

Turn on useful HUD info

Open Settings > On‑Screen Display:
- Enable Proximity Arrows.
- Set Track Map to Full.
- Show Telemetry or Car Status if you like seeing ERS %.
You should now see arrows when a car is alongside and a full track map with nearby cars.

Map the right buttons

Go to Settings > Controls:
- Map a dedicated button for ERS Overtake (on/off or hold).
- Map Look Back and Change Camera if needed.
Test that Overtake toggles and a yellow ERS icon/percentage appears on-screen.

Calibrate brakes for control

Settings > Controls:
- For wheels: Set a small Brake Deadzone (1–5) and adjust Brake Saturation/Linearity so you can hit ~95–100% brake without spiking.
- For controllers: Increase Brake Linearity slightly to make early pedal/trigger travel gentler.
In Car Setup (when in a session), drop Brake Pressure a few clicks if you’re locking. With ABS Off, 90–95% is beginner‑friendly.

Practice braking markers solo

Enter Time Trial on a track with clear boards (e.g., end of a long straight with 150/100/50m boards).
Pick a corner. Brake at 150m, then 140, 130… until you’re just at the limit without missing the apex.
You should now have consistent, repeatable reference points when alone.

Adjust for following another car

In a race session, when slipstreaming, start braking 5–15m earlier than alone, especially if you’re on the dusty inside line.
If you often understeer into the rival, move Brake Bias 1–2 clicks forward for stability under heavy braking.

Save energy to attack

On out‑laps or when sitting in DRS, stay in a neutral ERS mode and keep the battery 30–60%.
Use ERS Overtake from the exit of the preceding corner to the braking zone, not just halfway down the straight.

Execute the three clean pass “plays”

Inside out‑brake (textbook move):
1. Get within 1.0s at the DRS detection.
2. Good exit + DRS + ERS Overtake.
3. Move to the inside early—before the 150m board—so they can predict you.
4. Brake slightly later than usual, but still straight; trail‑brake to hug the inside curb.
5. Make the apex, leave a car’s width on exit. Deactivate Overtake if battery is low.
Switchback (cutback):
1. Approach on the racing line, show the outside to make them defend.
2. Lift slightly earlier, rotate better, and prioritize a straight exit.
3. Use ERS/DRS to drive past on the next straight.
Straight-line pass before turn‑in:
1. Maximize exit speed one corner earlier.
2. Use slipstream + DRS + ERS early on the straight.
3. Clear them before the 100m board and move back to the racing line smoothly.

Defend without chaos

One move to defend, then back to the racing line if safe.
Brake in a straight line on your normal marker—don’t jink in the braking zone.
If they’re alongside by turn‑in, leave a car’s width. Focus on exit speed to repass.

Tidy setup tweaks (optional)

If you can’t pass on straights: reduce Front/Rear Wing 1–2 clicks (track‑dependent) and lean on exits for traction with a slightly lower On‑Throttle Differential.
If you understeer when following: add 1 click of Front Wing or move Brake Bias slightly forward.

Success looks like this: you’re consistently alongside by the apex or fully past before turn‑in, with no contact and stable exits.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes

Sending from 2–3 car lengths back. If you’re not alongside by apex, it’s a divebomb—reset and try again.
Staring at the rival, not your marker. Lock eyes on the 150/100m boards; only glance at the car.
Braking like you’re on the racing line while on the dusty inside. Brake earlier and straighter; trail brake gently.
ERS spam. Draining to 0% leaves you unable to finish passes. Plan attacks; don’t mash.
“If my front wing is near their rear wheel, I own the corner.” No. Be significantly alongside at turn‑in and in control.
“AI always divebombs.” AI aggressiveness varies. If they keep sending, raise your brake marker a touch and leave predictable space.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

I keep rear‑ending cars into T1.
- Likely cause: slipstream + concertina effect.
- Fix: Brake 5–15m earlier when following; lower brake pressure a few clicks; enable ABS under Settings > Assists while learning.
I understeer into the leader when I try the inside.
- Cause: Offline grip is lower + too much speed.
- Fix: Brake earlier, trail‑brake less, add 1 click front wing. Prioritize making the apex over “late late” braking.
I never get DRS even when close.
- Cause: You’re outside 1.0s at the detection line.
- Fix: Save ERS for the corners before detection; optimize the previous exit; don’t fight mid‑lap if it costs you detection.
I keep getting contact penalties that feel harsh.
- Cause: The game often punishes the car arriving late and off‑line.
- Fix: Be alongside by turn‑in, hold line, leave space. In single‑player, ensure Rules & Flags: On under Session Settings so you learn clean habits.
I can’t pass AI at my difficulty.
- Cause: AI speed/defense scale with level.
- Fix: Drop AI by 2–5 points while learning racecraft; enable Corner Cutting: Strict offline to build clean line discipline.
Online lobbies are full of divebombers—help!
- Tips: Expect late sends in T1. Brake straight, leave the inside a car‑width to avoid being punted, and aim for a switchback. In custom lobbies, turn Ghosting: On if available. In ranked, qualify well to avoid midfield chaos.

Note: Don’t max brake pressure or move brake bias far rearward on a controller—it can make the car unstable and cause spins under braking.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Pre‑arm Overtake just before corner exit so deployment starts as you straighten the wheel—more traction, less wheelspin.
Plan attacks by sectors. Save battery through twisty sections; spend it at the end of long straights with heavy braking.
Master brake release. Smoothly releasing brakes helps the nose bite on the inside so you make the apex while leaving room.
Outsmart defenders. Show the inside early to force a defensive move, then execute the switchback with a better exit.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run a 5‑lap Grand Prix vs. AI at a comfortable difficulty:

You complete at least 3 overtakes with zero contact/warnings.
You’re alongside by apex or fully past before turn‑in on your successful moves.
You finish with >20% ERS and didn’t run 0% mid‑straight.
Your braking markers vary by only ~5–10m whether following or alone.

If you can tick these off consistently, your F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes are on point.

F125 braking technique: Nail threshold and trail‑braking to stop cleanly on the inside line.
F125 ERS and DRS strategy: When to build vs. spend for stress‑free passes.
F125 defending and racecraft: Legal blocks, switchbacks, and surviving T1 in online lobbies.

Now that your F125 divebombing vs clean overtakes is dialed in, the next big gain usually comes from improving your braking technique. Check out our guide on F125 braking technique next.