F125 wheel not detected

Learn about F125 wheel not detected


Updated October 8, 2025

If you’re seeing “F125 wheel not detected,” you’re not alone. It’s frustrating to plug in an expensive wheel and get nothing in F1 25. This usually comes down to drivers/firmware, USB power, Steam/console input conflicts, or using a wheel that isn’t supported. By the end of this guide you’ll know exactly how to get your wheel recognized and driving.

Quick Answer

Most “F125 wheel not detected” cases are solved by: updating your wheel’s firmware/drivers, using a rear motherboard USB port (no hubs), disabling Steam Input for F1 25 on PC, selecting the correct console mode on the wheel (PS/Xbox), then launching the game and choosing your wheel under Settings > Controls. If needed, rebuild game configs and verify/repair the install.

Why F125 wheel not detected Feels So Hard at First

  • You expect “plug-and-play,” but sim wheels rely on drivers, firmware, and strict USB power.
  • F1 25 must talk to your wheel through the right input layer (DirectInput on PC; licensed HID on consoles). If anything in that chain is off—even a USB hub—the game can’t see it.

The good news: the fix is systematic. Follow the steps below in order.

What F125 wheel not detected Actually Means in F1 25

  • The game doesn’t show your wheel under Settings > Controls, or it shows “Keyboard/Controller” only.
  • Turning the wheel or pressing pedals does nothing in the Controls screen.
  • On console, the wheel won’t sign in as a controller, or buttons don’t navigate menus.

Most often, it’s a connection/mode/driver support issue—not a broken wheel.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

  • Hardware:
    • Your wheelbase, rim, pedals, shifter/handbrake (as applicable).
    • A direct connection to the PC/console. Avoid USB hubs and front-panel ports.
  • Game:
    • F1 25 updated to the latest patch.
  • Software (PC):
    • Latest wheel drivers/firmware and control apps installed:
      • Logitech G HUB (G29/G923 and newer Logitech wheels)
      • Thrustmaster drivers + Control Panel
      • Fanatec Control Panel + Firmware Manager (optional FanaLab)
      • MOZA Pit House (PC only)
    • Platform app up to date (Steam or EA app).
  • In-game menus you’ll use:
    • Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback
    • Calibration (inside Controls)
    • Bindings (inside Controls)

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 wheel not detected

Follow these steps in order. Stop as soon as your wheel shows up and works.

  1. Power and USB basics
  • Power the wheelbase first and let it complete calibration.
  • Plug directly into a rear motherboard USB port (PC) or a console’s USB port.
  • Do not use USB hubs, front-panel ports, or long/low-quality cables.
    Success looks like: wheel recenters; LEDs light normally.
  1. Update drivers and firmware (PC)
  • Open your wheel’s software and update base, motor, and rim firmware.
  • Reboot the PC after updates.
    Success looks like: the device is listed and “Up to date” in the wheel software.
  1. Confirm Windows sees the wheel (PC)
  • Windows Search > “Set up USB game controllers” > verify the wheel appears.
  • Click Properties > test axes and buttons.
    If it doesn’t appear: reinstall your wheel drivers and try a different rear USB port.
  1. Disable conflicts (PC)
  • Steam: Library > F1 25 > Manage (gear icon) > Controller > “Override for F1 25” = Disable Steam Input.
  • Close or exit apps that hook controllers: iCUE, Razer Synapse, DS4Windows, vJoy/UCR, reWASD, MSI Mystic Light, etc.
  • Unplug extra game controllers temporarily (gamepads, extra wheels).
    Success looks like: only your intended wheel is listed under Windows Game Controllers.
  1. Set correct console mode on the wheel (PS5 / Xbox)
  • PlayStation: use a PlayStation-licensed wheel (e.g., Logitech G29/G923 PS, Thrustmaster T300/T-GT, Fanatec GT DD Pro PS). Put the base in PS5/PS4 mode (check LED/mode switch) and press the PS button on the wheel to sign in.
  • Xbox: use an Xbox-licensed wheel (e.g., Logitech G920/G923 Xbox, Thrustmaster TX/TMX/TS-XW, Fanatec CSL DD/GT DD Pro with Xbox-licensed rim). Press the Xbox button to sign in.
    Note: Non-licensed wheels generally won’t work on consoles.
  1. Launch the game in the right order
  • Power wheelbase > sign in (console) or ensure Windows detects it (PC) > launch F1 25.
  • On PC, minimize overlays (Steam overlay optional, G HUB overlay off).
  1. Select the wheel in F1 25
  • Open Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback.
  • On the left, you should see your wheel by name (or as a Generic Wheel).
  • Select the wheel preset, or choose Custom and press “Detect” by turning the wheel or pressing a pedal.
    Success looks like: the device graphic appears and input bars move when you steer/press pedals.
  1. Calibrate and bind essentials
  • Go to Calibration: set steering, throttle, brake deadzones to 0 first; verify full travel registers 0–100%.
  • Bind gear up/down, brake, throttle, clutch (if needed), DRS, Overtake.
  • Ensure Force Feedback is On under Vibration & Force Feedback.
    Success looks like: you can navigate menus with the wheel buttons and the car responds in a session.
  1. Rebuild input configs if needed (PC)
  • Close the game.
  • Go to Documents\My Games\F1 25\ (or the F1 25 documents folder on your system).
  • Back up, then delete hardware_settings_config.xml and any custom actionmap files.
  • Relaunch the game to regenerate clean configs.
    Success looks like: the game redetects your wheel on first input.
  1. Repair the game and drivers if still stuck
  • Steam: Library > F1 25 > Properties > Installed Files > Verify integrity.
  • EA app: F1 25 > Manage > Repair.
  • Reinstall wheel drivers cleanly, then reboot.
  • Console: power cycle (fully shut down), try another USB port, and if needed reinstall the game.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 wheel not detected

  • “Any wheel works on any console.”
    Not true. Consoles require officially licensed wheels/rims. A PC-only base often won’t work on PS5/Xbox.

  • “USB hubs are fine.”
    Hubs and front ports often under-power devices. Use a rear motherboard USB port or console port.

  • “Steam Input helps wheels.”
    For F1 25, Steam Input can block DirectInput. Disable it specifically for F1 25.

  • “If pedals don’t show, they’re broken.”
    Many pedal sets must be connected to the wheelbase, not USB, for consoles. On PC, separate USB pedals can work—but check your brand’s guidance.

  • “MOZA/Simucube will work on my console.”
    Many direct-drive PC bases aren’t console-licensed. Check the official F1 25 supported devices list for current status.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

  • Wheel not listed in Controls screen (PC)
    Likely cause: Steam Input conflict, driver issue, extra virtual devices.
    Try: Disable Steam Input, unplug extra controllers, remove vJoy/UCR, reinstall drivers, different USB port, delete Documents\My Games\F1 25 input configs, verify game files.

  • Force Feedback missing but steering works
    Likely cause: FFB disabled, wrong device profile, outdated firmware.
    Try: Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback = On; select the proper wheel preset; update firmware; ensure wheel software is running; avoid duplicate bindings.

  • PS5 won’t recognize the wheel
    Likely cause: wrong mode or non-PS-licensed wheel.
    Try: Set base to PS5/PS4 mode, press PS button on wheel to sign in, disconnect DualSense temporarily, plug into a different PS5 USB port, update firmware via PC.

  • Xbox navigation works but F1 25 doesn’t steer
    Likely cause: profile not bound or wrong device selected in-game.
    Try: Settings > Controls: choose the wheel device, create/restore the wheel preset, rebind steering and pedals, power cycle the console.

  • Pedals/shifter not detected
    Likely cause: connected to PC instead of wheel (console) or missing driver (PC).
    Try: On console, connect pedals/shifter to the wheelbase. On PC, install brand software and test in Windows Game Controllers. Check that the wheelbase is set to use external pedals.

  • Sudden loss of detection mid-session
    Likely cause: USB power saving.
    Try: On PC, Device Manager > Universal Serial Bus controllers > USB Root Hub > Power Management: uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device.” Also disable USB selective suspend in Windows Power Plan.

  • Don’t do this

    • Don’t hot-plug between hubs and ports while the game is running.
    • Don’t mix console-incompatible rims/bases and expect detection.
    • Don’t run multiple input remappers while troubleshooting.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Boot order matters: power the wheel first, then PC/console, then launch F1 25.
  • Keep one clean, tested wheel profile in-game. Duplicate it before experimenting with bindings.
  • On PC, keep your wheel software open and overlays off.
  • If you swap rims/bases often, label custom profiles by device name and date.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run this quick test:

  • In Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback, your wheel is listed by name.
  • Steering, throttle, and brake bars move smoothly 0–100% in Calibration.
  • FFB is On and you feel weight when turning in the garage.
  • You can drive a Time Trial lap with full control and no unexpected input drops.

If all four are true, you’ve fixed “F125 wheel not detected.”

  • Wheel FFB setup for consistency and feel: learn how to dial in Force Feedback without clipping.
  • F1 25 control bindings best practices: smart mappings for ERS, DRS, and camera while racing.
  • Now that your F125 wheel not detected issue is sorted, the next big gain usually comes from braking. Check out our guide on F125 braking technique next.

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