F125 Moza settings

Learn about F125 Moza settings


Updated October 23, 2025

If you’re struggling with F125 Moza settings, you’re not alone. Many new F1 25 players complain the wheel feels either too light and numb or too heavy and oscillatory. That happens because F1 25’s default force feedback and driver filters aren’t tuned for Moza direct-drive bases out of the box. By the end of this guide you’ll have a clear, step-by-step setup that feels natural, stable, and fast.

Quick Answer

Set your Moza base to 360° rotation, 100% base strength, minimal driver damping/friction, and handle the feel mostly in-game. In F1 25, start with Force Feedback Strength around 50–65 (lower for stronger bases), Wheel Damper 8–12, On-Track/Rumble 10–20, Understeer Enhance Off. Calibrate pedals carefully and test in Time Trial before fine-tuning +/-5 on Strength and Damper.

Why F125 Moza settings Feels So Hard at First

  • F1 25 models tire forces well, but the defaults assume a broad range of wheels—not specifically Moza DD torque and filters.
  • Direct-drive wheels amplify any bad mix of damping, effects, and rotation, causing clipping (heavy, muddy feel) or oscillation (wheel fights you on straights).

The fix: set clean, consistent driver (Moza Pit House) values, then dial feel in-game with a few key sliders.

What F125 Moza settings Actually Means in F1 25

  • “Moza settings” covers two layers:
    1. Moza Pit House driver profile (rotation, torque, damping, friction, smoothing).
    2. F1 25 in-game controls (calibration and force feedback sliders).

Plain-language goals:

  • Rotation matches an F1 car (fast, precise: ~360°).
  • Enough force to read the tires without clipping.
  • Just enough damping to stop wobbles, not hide detail.
  • Curb/road effects present but not rattly.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

  • Hardware:
    • Moza base (R5, R9, R12, R16, R21) and Moza wheel.
    • Moza pedals (calibrate in Pit House; load cell users set realistic max force).
  • Software:
    • Latest Moza Pit House and firmware (update all devices).
    • F1 25 on the latest patch.
    • Steam users: set Steam Input for F1 25 to “Disabled” or “Use default” to avoid double inputs.
  • Mode:
    • Use Time Trial (dry) at a familiar track (Austria, Spain, or Bahrain) for consistent testing.
  • Menus you will use:
    • Moza Pit House: Base/Wheel/Pedal settings.
    • In-game: Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback, Calibration, Button Mapping.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 Moza settings

  1. Update and prepare
  • Open Moza Pit House > check for firmware updates and apply.
  • Ensure the base is in PC mode and recognized by Windows.
  • Optional: create a new Pit House profile named “F1 25”.
  1. Set Moza Pit House (driver) baseline
  • Steering Angle: 360° (matches F1 steering range; you can try 380–420 later if you want more arm movement).
  • Overall Strength (Torque): 100% on R5/R9/R12/R16; 80–100% on R21 depending on comfort.
  • Game Force Feedback Intensity: 100%.
  • Wheel Spring Strength: 0% (let the game handle forces).
  • Wheel Damper: 0–5% (keep low; we’ll use in-game damper).
  • Mechanical Damping: 0–5%.
  • Mechanical Friction: 0–3%.
  • Inertia: 0–5% (optional; small values can calm micro-chatter).
  • FFB Smoothing/Interpolation: 2–4 (small smoothing helps graininess).
  • Hands-Off Protection: Low (or Off if it falsely cuts torque on long straights).
  • Speed-Dependent Damping: Off.
  • Save this profile.
  1. Calibrate pedals in Pit House
  • Set clear Min/Max for throttle and brake.
  • Potentiometer brakes (e.g., SR-P Lite): keep curve linear; add 1–2% deadzone if you get spiking.
  • Load cell brakes (SR-P): set Max Force so a firm, sustainable press gives 100% in-game (many prefer 55–75% of their real max for race stints).
  1. Launch F1 25 and detect the wheel
  • Settings > Controls > create/select a custom wheel profile for your Moza.
  • If the wheel isn’t detected, back out to desktop and replug USB into a USB 3.0 port, then relaunch.
  1. Calibrate controls in-game
  • Settings > Controls > Calibration:
    • Steering Deadzone: 0
    • Steering Linearity: 0
    • Steering Saturation: 0
    • Throttle Deadzone: 0–2 (only if you get flutter)
    • Throttle Saturation: 0
    • Brake Deadzone: 0–2 (set 1–2% if your foot rests on the pedal)
    • Brake Saturation: adjust so your firm, sustainable press reaches 100% on the in-game bar
    • Maximum Wheel Rotation (if available): 360°
  • You should now see full left/right values hit -100/+100 and pedal bars reach 100% without stomping painfully.
  1. Set F1 25 Force Feedback
  • Settings > Controls > Vibration & Force Feedback:
    • Vibration & Force Feedback: On
    • Vibration & FFB Strength (starting points):
      • R5: 60–70
      • R9: 50–60
      • R12/R16: 45–55
      • R21: 40–50
    • On-Track Effects: 10–20
    • Rumble Strip Effects: 10–20
    • Off-Track Effects: 8–15
    • Wheel Damper: 8–12 (start at 10)
    • Understeer Enhance: Off (turn On if you’re learning and want clearer “loss of front grip” feel)
  • Save the profile.
  • You should now feel steady weight in medium corners, texture on curbs, and a calm wheel on straights.
  1. Map essential buttons
  • Settings > Controls > Button Functions:
    • DRS, Overtake/ERS, Pit Limiter, Brake Bias +/–, Differential (On/Off Throttle), MFD/Navigate, Radio, Flashback (optional), Reset Car (if allowed).
  • Confirm each button lights up on the on-screen diagram.
  1. Test and fine-tune in Time Trial
  • Run 5–10 laps at a stable pace.
  • If the wheel feels heavy and details disappear over big compressions/curbs (clipping), lower Strength by 5.
  • If it’s too light or vague, raise Strength by 3–5.
  • If the wheel oscillates on straights, raise Wheel Damper by 2–3 or add 2–3% Mechanical Damping/Friction in Pit House.
  • Save changes and re-test.
  1. Optional: make a “Wet/Endurance” profile
  • Copy your profile and set Strength -5 and Wheel Damper +5 for long stints or wet races.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 Moza settings

  • Maxing in-game Strength “for realism”: causes clipping and hides detail. Use the lowest Strength that still communicates grip.
  • Running high driver damping/friction: masks detail and adds latency. Keep these low; use in-game Wheel Damper to stabilize.
  • Ignoring rotation: 360° is key for F1 cars. Running 900° without a game soft lock will feel sluggish.
  • Overusing On-Track/Rumble: high values add grainy noise, not useful grip info.
  • Thinking Understeer Enhance is mandatory: it’s preference. Off is more “raw,” On can help newer drivers sense push.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

  • Wheel not detected

    • Likely cause: driver/USB/Steam Input conflict.
    • Fixes:
      • Update Pit House and firmware, use a USB 3.0 port.
      • Steam > Library > F1 25 > Controller > Disable Steam Input for this game.
      • Create a new custom wheel profile in-game and rebind axes.

  • No force feedback

    • Likely cause: FFB disabled or driver spring taking over.
    • Fixes:
      • In-game: Vibration & Force Feedback = On.
      • Pit House: Game FFB Intensity 100%, Wheel Spring 0%.
      • Restart the game after big driver changes.

  • Wheel oscillates on straights

    • Likely cause: too little damping or too high Strength.
    • Fixes:
      • In-game Wheel Damper +2–4.
      • Pit House: add 2–5% Mechanical Damping or Friction.
      • Reduce Strength by 5.

  • Feels heavy with no detail (clipping)

    • Likely cause: Strength too high.
    • Fixes:
      • Lower Strength by 5 and re-test over big curbs/long corners.
      • Keep On-Track/Rumble at or below ~20.

  • Numb center / delayed response

    • Likely cause: too much driver damping/inertia or high smoothing.
    • Fixes:
      • Reduce Pit House Inertia and Damping toward 0–2%.
      • Keep FFB Interpolation around 2–3.

  • Pedal issues (hits 100% too soon or never)

    • Likely cause: wrong saturation or max force.
    • Fixes:
      • Recalibrate pedals in Pit House and in-game.
      • Adjust Brake Saturation so your firm press hits 100% without pain.

  • Console caveat

    • Some Moza bases aren’t supported on console versions. Ensure you’re using a console-licensed Moza base/wheel and current firmware. If not recognized, you’ll need to play on PC.

Note: Don’t max Wheel Damper; it can make the car sluggish. Don’t set Hands-Off Protection to High if it’s cutting force mid-straight.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Keep two in-game profiles: “Quali” (Strength +3, Damper -2) and “Race/Wet” (Strength -3, Damper +3).
  • Use a test corner routine:
    • Spain T3/T9 for mid–high speed load.
    • Austria exit curbs for texture and clipping checks.
  • If you add a dashboard or HUD with torque bars, aim for occasional peaks, not constant max—consistency beats raw force.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

  • The car self-centers smoothly on straights without wobble.
  • You feel curbs and surface changes distinctly but not harshly.
  • In fast corners, weight builds progressively; on understeer the wheel subtly lightens (or clearly lightens if Understeer Enhance On).
  • You can run 5–10 clean laps in Time Trial within a few tenths, with less fatigue.
  • Now that your F125 Moza settings are dialed in, the next big gain usually comes from braking. Check out our guide on F125 braking technique.
  • Want deeper control feel? Read our F125 pedal setup and calibration guide.
  • Ready to push lap time? See our F125 force feedback explained and tuning workflow to iterate faster, track by track.

What F125 Moza settings Means in F1 25

In short: set clean Moza driver values (low damping/friction, correct rotation), then shape the feel with F1 25’s Strength, Damper, and effects sliders. Use Time Trial to test changes one at a time. With this process, you’ll get a precise, stable wheel that communicates tire grip clearly.

Your subscribe form goes here