F125 controller not working

Learn about F125 controller not working


Updated October 21, 2025

If you’re stuck with an F125 controller not working, you’re not alone. It’s frustrating when the game won’t respond to your inputs, menus scroll on their own, or the car won’t move. In F1 25, this usually comes down to the game seeing the wrong device, a Steam/EA App input mode mismatch, or controller firmware/driver issues. This guide will show you exactly how to get your controller detected, mapped, and working reliably on PC (Steam or EA App) and consoles.

Quick Answer

Most fixes come from four actions: use a wired USB cable, set the correct Steam Input mode for your device, select the right control scheme in-game, and recalibrate/remap. On Steam, set Controller Override to “Disable Steam Input” for Xbox pads and “Enable/Forced On” for PlayStation pads. In-game, go to Settings > Controls and select the Controller preset, then Calibrate and remap Accelerate/Brake/Steer.

Why F125 controller not working Feels So Hard at First

F1 25 supports many input paths (Xbox/PlayStation controllers, wheels, Steam Input, Bluetooth, wired). If any layer is mismatched—like Steam emulating a different pad type, the game locking onto another device (a wheel, pedals, or virtual driver), or outdated firmware—your inputs don’t reach the game correctly.

What F125 controller not working Actually Means in F1 25

Practically, it’s one of these:

  • The game doesn’t detect your controller at all.
  • The wrong device is “active” (e.g., a wheel or virtual device from DS4Windows).
  • Steam Input mode conflicts (double input or no input).
  • Triggers/axes aren’t calibrated or are bound to the wrong actions.
  • Bluetooth power saving or firmware issues causing drops.

You’ll fix it by ensuring the controller is recognized by the system, choosing the right input layer (Steam Input on/off as needed), selecting the proper in-game control scheme, then calibrating and remapping.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Have ready:

  • A data-capable USB cable (USB‑C for Series/PS5 controllers).
  • Your platform:
    • PC (Steam or EA App on the latest F1 25 patch).
    • PS5 or Xbox Series X|S (system updated).
  • Controller firmware updated:
    • Xbox: Xbox Accessories app (on console or Windows).
    • PS5: update via PS5 console.
  • In-game menus you’ll use:
    • Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback
    • Control Schemes
    • Calibration
    • Edit Mappings

Optional but helpful:

  • On Windows: Win+R, type “joy.cpl” to test the controller.
  • For Steam: Steam > Settings > Controller.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 controller not working

Follow the section for your platform.

A) PS5 and Xbox Series (Console)

  1. Power and cable check
  • Use a wired USB connection first.
  • Replace low batteries or charge the pad. Success: Controller stays connected without disconnects.
  1. Update firmware
  • PS5: Settings > Accessories > Controllers > Update Wireless Controller.
  • Xbox: Settings > Devices & connections > Accessories > … > Update. Success: No update available or update completes.
  1. Remove conflicts
  • Unplug wheels/pedals/extra controllers.
  • Close remapping apps or macros if any. Success: Only one controller connected and active.
  1. In F1 25, select the controller scheme
  • Open Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback.
  • Under Control Schemes, select Wireless Controller (PS5) or Xbox Controller.
  • Choose Preset 1 (or any preset), then press Calibrate. Success: You see sliders/bars moving when you press triggers/steer.
  1. Calibrate and map
  • In Calibration, fully press and release triggers and steer left/right to the stops.
  • Go to Edit Mappings and bind Accelerate, Brake, Steer Left/Right, Pause.
  • Press Apply/Save. Success: Inputs respond in menus and on-track.

B) PC — Steam version

  1. Use wired first
  • Connect via USB. Avoid hubs for testing; plug directly into the motherboard. Success: Windows plays a connect sound and the controller appears in joy.cpl.
  1. Update firmware
  • Xbox: Install the Xbox Accessories app (Microsoft Store) and update.
  • PlayStation: Update via PS5 console when possible (firmware matters even on PC). Success: Firmware up to date.
  1. Check Windows sees the pad
  • Press Win+R, type joy.cpl > OK. You should see “Xbox Controller” or “Wireless Controller.”
  • Select it > Properties to verify buttons/axes move. If missing: Try another USB port/cable, or reinstall the device in Device Manager (Human Interface Devices > Uninstall, then reconnect).
  1. Set the right Steam Input mode (critical)
  • In Steam Library, right-click F1 25 > Properties > Controller.
  • For an Xbox pad: set Override for F1 25 to Disable Steam Input (prevents double input).
  • For a PS5/PS4 pad: set Enable Steam Input or Forced On (allows Steam to translate to XInput).
  • Optional global setting: Steam > Settings > Controller > General Controller Settings, tick support appropriate to your device. Success: No double inputs and the game receives inputs.
  1. Remove conflicts
  • Exit DS4Windows/DSX if using Steam Input for PlayStation pads (avoid two translators).
  • Unplug wheels/extra pads and disable virtual controllers created by apps. Success: Only one active controller listed in Steam’s Controller settings.
  1. Select the controller scheme in-game
  • Open Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback.
  • Under Control Schemes, select Controller (not a wheel).
  • Press Calibrate, fully move triggers/sticks.
  • Open Edit Mappings and bind Accelerate, Brake, Steer, Pause. Apply. Success: Bars move in Calibration; menus respond to A/Cross and B/Circle.
  1. Test on track
  • Go to Time Trial (single car on track). Drive out.
  • Verify throttle/brake are 0–100% and steering responds smoothly. Success: Car moves, no stuck inputs. Rumble may activate on kerbs.

C) PC — EA App / Non‑Steam

Without Steam Input, F1 25 prefers XInput (Xbox-style) controllers.

  1. Prefer an Xbox or XInput-mode controller
  • If using third-party (e.g., 8BitDo), switch to XInput mode per its manual.
  • If using DualSense/DualShock without Steam: consider wiring it and using a safe translator. Important: Some anti-cheat updates may block driver-based tools. If needed, add F1 25 as a “Non-Steam Game” in Steam to use Steam Input translation safely.
  1. Wired connection and firmware updates
  • Use USB cable and update controller firmware (Xbox Accessories app on Windows). Success: Detected in joy.cpl as an Xbox controller.
  1. Remove conflicts and virtual devices
  • Close DS4Windows/other mappers if they create extra devices the anti-cheat dislikes. Success: Only one controller in joy.cpl.
  1. In-game setup
  • Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback > select Controller, Calibrate, Edit Mappings > Apply. Success: Inputs work in Calibration and on track.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 controller not working

  • Leaving Steam Input “On” for Xbox controllers can cause double input. Fix: Disable Steam Input per-game for Xbox pads.
  • Expecting PlayStation pads to work natively on PC without a translator. Fix: Use Steam Input (recommended) or an XInput-mode/translator you trust.
  • Mapping before calibration. Fix: Always calibrate first so full trigger range is detected.
  • Multiple input devices connected. Fix: Unplug wheels/pedals/extra pads while testing.
  • Bluetooth first. Fix: Prove it works wired before trying Bluetooth; Bluetooth power saving can cut inputs.
  • Reinstalling the whole game too early. Fix: Usually unnecessary—input layer conflicts cause most issues.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

  • No input at all in menus:

    • Likely cause: Steam Input mismatch or wrong active device.
    • Try: On Steam, set per-game Controller Override appropriately (Disable for Xbox, Enable for PlayStation). Unplug other devices. Restart the game after changing.

  • Menus keep scrolling or camera spins:

    • Likely cause: Stick drift or another device sending input.
    • Try: Unplug all devices except the controller; in Calibration, set a small Left Stick Deadzone (2–5). If the stick is faulty, consider repair/replacement.

  • Triggers not recognized or act like on/off:

    • Likely cause: Wrong controller type or DInput vs XInput mismatch.
    • Try: Use XInput mode or Steam Input translation for PS controllers. Recalibrate after switching modes.

  • Works in Windows but not in F1 25:

    • Likely cause: Wrong control scheme selected.
    • Try: In-game select Controller under Control Schemes, then Calibrate and Edit Mappings. Apply changes.

  • Random disconnects during races:

    • Likely cause: Power saving or cable/port issues.
    • Try: Use a short, high‑quality USB cable; disable USB power saving (Windows Device Manager > USB Root Hub > Power Management > uncheck “Allow the computer to turn off this device”). Avoid Bluetooth for league races.

  • After an update/patch it stopped working:

    • Likely cause: Steam Input reset or config overwritten.
    • Try: Recheck per-game Controller Override, reload your custom control scheme, recalibrate. Some patches can change defaults.

  • EA App + DualSense not working:

    • Likely cause: No Steam Input available.
    • Try: Add F1 25 to Steam as a non‑Steam game and enable Steam Input for PlayStation controllers, or use a controller that presents as XInput.

  • Multiplayer only issues:

    • Likely cause: Anti-cheat blocking third-party drivers.
    • Try: Close DS4Windows/unauthorized mappers. Prefer Steam Input or native XInput devices.

Note: Don’t max deadzones or sensitivity “to test”—that can make the car unresponsive or twitchy. Keep deadzones low (0–5) and sensitivity default while diagnosing.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Save a named controller profile: in Control Schemes, duplicate and name it (e.g., “My Controller v1”). Easy to reload after patches.
  • Screenshot your Edit Mappings and Calibration pages for quick recovery.
  • For consistent league racing, use wired USB and disable overlays/mappers you don’t need.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run this quick checklist:

  • In Settings > Controls, your controller name appears and is selected under Control Schemes.
  • In Calibration, bars move smoothly when you press triggers and steer; full 0–100% range is detected.
  • In Edit Mappings, Accelerate/Brake/Steer/Pause are bound to the buttons you expect and saved.
  • In Time Trial, the car responds immediately to inputs; no stuck throttle/brake; no menu auto-scroll.
  • If on Steam, no double inputs after setting the correct per‑game Controller Override.
  • Controller setup and feel: See our guide on F125 controller sensitivity, deadzones, and vibration to fine-tune comfort and consistency.
  • Driving aids and early pace: Read F125 assists explained to choose ABS/TC/ERS settings that suit controllers.
  • Cornering confidence: Next, learn F125 braking technique to unlock lap time once your controller is behaving.

You’ve got this—once the layers are aligned, F1 25 is rock-solid on controller. If anything changes in a future patch, revisit the Steam/EA App input mode and your in‑game Control Scheme first; those two solve most issues fast.

Your subscribe form goes here