how to use ERS in F125

Learn about how to use ERS in F125

Updated October 22, 2025

Feeling lost about when to press Overtake, why your battery is always empty, or why the AI rockets past you on straights? You’re not alone. Early on, learning how to use ERS in F125 feels opaque because energy deployment is partially automated and the game doesn’t teach timing. This guide will show you exactly what ERS does, how to map it, and a simple routine to deploy it faster and smarter in races and quali.

Quick Answer

ERS in F1 25 is mostly automatic. Your job is to map and manage the ERS Overtake button for short bursts on key straights. Turn off ERS Assist to control it yourself. Use Overtake only in higher gears on exits and DRS zones, then turn it off. Save energy in corners and “reset” with recharge laps when the battery is low.

Why how to use ERS in F125 Feels So Hard at First

The game auto-handles baseline energy usage; you only control the “extra boost” via Overtake. That split can be confusing.
ERS drains fast if you hold Overtake too long, and the battery recharges mainly under braking—so pacing matters.

By the end of this guide, you’ll confidently map your controls, read the HUD, and follow a repeatable ERS plan for qualifying and races.

What how to use ERS in F125 Actually Means in F1 25

ERS (Energy Recovery System) captures energy under braking and stores it in a battery.
The game automatically deploys a baseline amount. You control an extra deploy mode called ERS Overtake:
- Press to toggle (or hold—depending on your control setting) for a power boost on straights.
- It drains the battery quickly; use it in short bursts.
The battery percentage shows how much energy you have. When it’s low, you’ll notice weaker acceleration on straights.
You harvest energy when you’re off-throttle and especially under braking. More heavy braking = faster recharge.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware: Controller or wheel with at least one easily reachable button for Overtake, plus buttons for MFD and Radio.
Game version/modes: Latest F1 25 patch. Works the same in Time Trial, Grand Prix, Career/My Team, and Multiplayer.
Menus you’ll use:
- Settings > Assists > ERS Assist
- Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback > your device > Customize Controls
- (Optional) Settings > OSD/Telemetry to ensure the battery and Overtake indicators are visible.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve how to use ERS in F125

Map your Overtake and HUD buttons
- Go to Settings > Controls, Vibration & Force Feedback > Select your device > Customize Controls.
- Bind a dedicated button to ERS Overtake.
- Bind MFD Toggle/Next/Previous (to see car info, including battery) and Radio (to ask for “Battery status”).
- If there’s an option for Overtake behavior (Toggle/Hold), pick the style you prefer.
Success check: You can see a button label for ERS Overtake on your in-game device diagram and it responds in the garage.
Choose your assist level
- Settings > Assists > ERS Assist:
  - OFF: You manage Overtake manually (recommended for control and lap time).
  - ON: The game uses Overtake for you (easier but often suboptimal).
Success check: With ERS Assist OFF, pressing your Overtake button toggles an on-screen indicator (e.g., “Overtake ON/OFF”).
Learn the HUD cues
- On track, locate the battery % and the Overtake status indicator on your OSD.
- Watch the battery drain when Overtake is enabled and recharge under braking.
Success check: Battery % changes logically—down on long pushes, up in heavy-braking sections.
Practice the timing (Time Trial/Practice)
- Out of slow corners, wait until you’re in traction (usually 3rd–4th gear) before enabling Overtake.
- Turn Overtake OFF before heavy braking or if you lift.
- Start with 1–2 second bursts on the longest straight, then review your battery.
Success check: You can complete a lap without depleting the battery, and your top speed improves on straights.
Qualifying routine (simple and fast)
- Out-lap: No Overtake—just build tire and brake temps, save battery.
- Push lap:
  - Use Overtake on the main straight from stable traction to the braking point.
  - Optionally add one more short burst on the second-longest straight.
  - Avoid using Overtake mid-corner or in very low gears.
- In-lap: No Overtake—recharge.
Success check: Battery starts the push lap near full, ends with enough for one more attempt if needed.
Race routine (structured and safe)
- Start: Use sparingly off the line; prioritize traction first.
- Attack: Combine Overtake with DRS on main passing straights.
- Defend: Short bursts to prevent a pass in DRS zones.
- Recharge laps: If battery gets low, skip Overtake for a lap—especially on tracks with heavy braking—to recover.
- Endgame: Spend what’s left on the final laps or to break/earn DRS.
Success check: Battery fluctuates between roughly 20–80% during stints; you have energy when fights matter.
Wet or low-grip adjustments
- Use shorter, later bursts (after the car is straight in higher gears).
- Expect slower recharge due to lighter braking.
Success check: No wheelspin from Overtake; battery still recovers over a couple of laps.

Common Mistakes and Myths About how to use ERS in F125

Holding Overtake for a whole lap: You’ll drain the battery and be a sitting duck next lap.
Using Overtake in 1st–2nd gear: Causes wheelspin and poor traction—wait until the car is stable.
Ignoring DRS: ERS is most efficient when paired with DRS on long straights.
Sitting on 100% battery: Unused energy is wasted lap time—spend it where it counts.
Thinking ERS only recharges on full brakes: It harvests most under braking but also during off-throttle phases; heavy braking zones help the most.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

Overtake does nothing when I press it
- Likely cause: ERS Assist ON or no button mapping.
- Fix: Assists > ERS Assist OFF. Rebind ERS Overtake. Check for conflicting bindings.
Battery never seems to recharge
- Likely cause: You’re constantly using Overtake or not hitting heavy braking zones.
- Fix: Do a full “recharge lap” with no Overtake. Plan pushes after corners with big braking (e.g., hairpins/chicanes).
I spin when I hit Overtake
- Likely cause: Deploying in low gears or on corner exit before traction.
- Fix: Wait until 3rd–4th gear and the wheel is straight. Short bursts only.
My car feels weak on straights compared to AI
- Likely cause: Poor ERS timing or drained battery.
- Fix: Save energy before key DRS zones and deploy in bursts. Ensure you’re not wasting energy mid-corner.
Can’t see battery or Overtake status on HUD
- Likely cause: Minimal HUD settings.
- Fix: Settings > OSD/Telemetry > Enable battery/ERS and MFD indicators.
Overtake greyed out or limited
- Likely cause: Pit lane, formation lap, safety car/virtual safety car, or event rules.
- Fix: Wait until green-flag running; deployment is restricted in those phases.
ERS recharges slower after contact
- Likely cause: MGU-K damage (car damage affects harvest/deploy).
- Fix: Check MFD > Car Condition. Consider pitting or adjusting your strategy.

Note: Don’t “panic deploy.” Press, count “one-thousand-one… one-thousand-two,” then off. That rhythm avoids accidental full-lap drains.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Pair with DRS: Use Overtake only after the DRS flap opens for maximum effect.
Break the DRS train: Spend extra ERS to pull a 1.0s gap; then recharge once rivals lose DRS.
Engineer intel: Use Radio > “Battery status” to decide if you can afford another push lap.
Track-specific planning: Circuits with one mega-straight (e.g., after a hairpin) reward saving ERS for that single launch.
Final lap logic: Spend it. There’s no prize for finishing with 40% battery.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

You have a mapped Overtake button and can see battery % and Overtake ON/OFF on the HUD.
In qualifying, you start push laps near full and end with enough for a second attempt if needed.
In races, you typically keep 20–80% battery, with deliberate “recharge laps” when it drops low.
Your straight-line speed improves in DRS zones and you can time passes or defend consistently.

Simple test:

Load a Grand Prix at a track with a long straight.
Do 5 race-pace laps:
- Laps 1–2: Use Overtake only on the main straight.
- Lap 3: No Overtake (recharge).
- Laps 4–5: Attack with Overtake + DRS.
If your trap speeds and battery stability improve compared to free use, you’ve nailed it.

DRS timing and racecraft: Learn when to commit vs. save for a bigger run.
Traction and throttle control: Clean exits make ERS pushes safer and faster.
Race strategy basics: When to spend vs. bank energy around pit windows and tire life.

Now that you understand how to use ERS in F125, the next big gain usually comes from improving your braking technique and exit traction. Check out our guides on braking and corner exits next.