how to stop spinning in F125

Learn about how to stop spinning in F125


Updated October 20, 2025

Spinning sucks. You turn in, the rear snaps, and your lap—or race—is gone. If you’re searching for how to stop spinning in F125, you’re not alone. F1 25 punishes harsh inputs, hot rear tires, and poor setups. This guide will show you exactly how to fix it: assists, inputs, setup, and practice that actually works.

Quick Answer

Smooth inputs first, setup second. Use Medium or Full Traction Control, ABS On, and practice in Time Trial. Apply throttle only as you unwind steering, short‑shift on exits, and avoid using ERS Overtake mid‑corner. In setup, lower On‑Throttle Differential, add a click of rear wing, soften rear ARB, move brake bias forward 1–2%, and keep rear tires cool.

Why how to stop spinning in F125 Feels So Hard at First

F1 cars have huge torque, sensitive aero, and tires that only work in a narrow temperature window. If you brake while turning, apply power too early, or hit curbs at the wrong angle, the rear gets light and loses grip. The promise of this guide: you’ll know why you’re spinning and exactly how to stop it—step by step.

What how to stop spinning in F125 Actually Means in F1 25

“Stopping spins” means preventing oversteer in three places:

  • Corner entry: rear steps out while braking or lifting.
  • Mid‑corner: snap oversteer from curbs, bumps, or lifted throttle.
  • Corner exit: wheelspin from too much throttle, wrong gear, or ERS.

Each has different fixes—technique, assists, and setup tweaks—to stabilize the car.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

  • Hardware: Controller or wheel/pedals (both supported).
  • Mode: Use Time Trial (Dry) to remove fuel/tyre wear variables. Career/Grand Prix works too, but practice baseline in TT first.
  • Version: Latest patch recommended.
  • Menus you’ll use:
    • Options > Settings > Assists
    • Options > Settings > Controls, Calibration & Vibration
    • On track: Pause > Car Setup (Transmission, Aerodynamics, Suspension, Suspension Geometry, Tyres)
    • HUD: Tyre temps and throttle/brake bars

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve how to stop spinning in F125

  1. Enable the right assists (for now)
  • Open Settings > Assists:
    • Traction Control: start on Medium (or Full if you’re brand new).
    • ABS: On.
    • Dynamic Racing Line: Corners Only.
    • Gearbox: Automatic or Manual with Suggested Gear (your choice).
  • You should now see TC/ABS on. This keeps the car catchable while you learn.
  1. Tame your inputs (controller and wheel)
  • Go to Settings > Controls and select your device.
  • Controller:
    • Throttle Linearity: 30–50 (so the first half of the trigger is gentler).
    • Throttle Deadzone: 0–2.
    • Steering Linearity: 20–35 to smooth initial steering.
    • Brake Linearity: 20–40 if you lock easily.
  • Wheel:
    • Calibrate pedals; avoid sudden spikes. Set Brake Saturation so 100% is reachable without standing on it.
    • Keep FFB strong enough to feel rear slip but not so strong it causes overcorrection.
  • Success looks like steadier throttle/brake bars on the HUD and fewer sudden lockups or spins.
  1. Fix your technique (the biggest win)
  • Braking:
    • Brake in a straight line. Ease off the brake as you turn in (smooth release over ~0.4–0.6s).
    • If the rear wiggles on entry, move Brake Bias forward by 1–2% in the MFD.
  • Turning:
    • Aim for one clean arc, not a sudden jab. Avoid sawing at the wheel/joystick.
  • Throttle:
    • No throttle until you’re past apex or the steering angle is coming back toward center.
    • Short‑shift (e.g., 2→3→4) on exits that spin you.
    • Add throttle progressively: 20% → 40% → 70% → 100% as you unwind steering.
  • ERS:
    • Don’t press Overtake in a corner. Use it only when the wheel is straight.
  • You’ll feel exits become calmer and lap times more consistent.
  1. Make three high‑value setup tweaks
  • From the garage, open Car Setup:
    • Transmission > On‑Throttle Differential: lower it a few clicks (reduces inside‑rear spin on exit).
    • Aerodynamics > Rear Wing: add 1–2 clicks (more rear downforce = stability).
    • Suspension > Rear Anti‑Roll Bar: soften 1–2 clicks (helps traction over bumps and on power).
  • Optional stability helpers:
    • Brake Bias: 1–2% more forward if you spin while braking/turning.
    • Suspension Geometry: slightly less negative Rear Camber and a touch more Rear Toe‑in for stability.
    • Tyres > Rear Pressures: reduce 1 click to cool rears and add traction.
  • Don’t max any slider; small changes first. Save the setup.
  1. Practice on a friendly test route
  • Go to Time Trial at Spain or Bahrain (dry).
  • Do runs of 5 clean laps:
    • Focus on slow exits—no throttle until you’re nearly straight.
    • Avoid high “sausage” curbs while on power.
    • If rears overheat, do one cooldown lap at 70% pace, minimal sliding.
  • Aim for consistent laps within 0.5s.
  1. Learn curb and surface rules
  • Flat curbs: fine with mild throttle.
  • Tall/sausage curbs: coast or very light throttle; straighten steering first.
  • Painted lines/kerbs in wet: extremely slippery; be gentle and short‑shift.
  1. Monitor tire temperatures and adjust
  • Enable the tire temp HUD. If the rears spike and stay hot, you’ll keep sliding.
  • Action plan:
    • Back off for a lap.
    • Lower rear pressures one click.
    • Soften rear ARB one click.
    • Be gentler on exits and avoid Overtake mid‑corner.
  1. Wet‑weather tweaks (if applicable)
  • Traction Control: Full.
  • Lower On‑Throttle Diff a bit more.
  • Add an extra click of rear wing.
  • Short‑shift aggressively and delay throttle.

Common Mistakes and Myths About how to stop spinning in F125

  • Mashing the throttle at apex: Push only as you unwind steering.
  • Using ERS Overtake while turning: Wait until the wheel is straight.
  • Copying extreme esports setups: Those demand perfect inputs; start with stable setups.
  • Dropping assists too soon: Keep TC/ABS until your lines and throttle trace are smooth.
  • Maxing a single slider “for grip”: Big changes often create new problems.
  • Ignoring tire temps: Hot rears = guaranteed spins on the next corner.
  • Downshifting too aggressively: It can unsettle the rear—short‑shift if exits are snappy.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

  • I still spin on exit even with Medium TC

    • Likely cause: Too much throttle while steering, low on‑throttle diff, or hot rears.
    • Fix: Wait longer before throttle, short‑shift, lower On‑Throttle Diff a bit, reduce rear pressures 1 click, and avoid Overtake until straight.

  • The rear snaps when I lift off mid‑corner

    • Cause: Rear is light; off‑throttle diff and brake bias may be too aggressive.
    • Fix: Increase Off‑Throttle Diff slightly for entry stability, move Brake Bias forward 1–2%, and release throttle/brake more smoothly.

  • I spin under braking/turn‑in

    • Cause: Rear locking or too much trail braking.
    • Fix: ABS On, Brake Bias forward 1–2%, straighter braking, smoother brake release.

  • Only high‑speed corners cause spins

    • Cause: Not enough rear downforce or stiff rear ARB.
    • Fix: Add rear wing 1 click, soften rear ARB 1 click, commit to a steady line (no mid‑corner steering stabs).

  • Only in races, not Time Trial

    • Cause: Fuel weight, tire wear, and temps.
    • Fix: Drive 5% gentler on exits early in stints, lower rear pressures a click for races, and manage temps with occasional cooldown laps.

  • Controller feels on/off; I overcorrect

    • Cause: Sensitivity too high.
    • Fix: Raise Steering/Throttle Linearity. Add a tiny deadzone (0–2). Keep inputs within the on‑screen bars.

  • My setup changes don’t apply

    • Cause: Not saved/loaded correctly.
    • Fix: Save the setup in the garage and re‑load it before leaving.
    • Note: If your changes don’t seem to apply, make sure you saved the setup before leaving the garage.

  • FPS or stutter causes spins

    • Cause: Inconsistent frame pacing.
    • Fix: Lower graphics settings for stable FPS and reduce input lag. Consistency beats visuals.

  • What NOT to do

    • Don’t max On‑Throttle Diff or kill all rear camber “for traction.”
    • Don’t add Overtake mid‑corner.
    • Don’t drop TC to Off until your throttle trace is smooth and repeatable.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Watch your HUD bars: Aim for a clean, progressive throttle trace and steady brake release.
  • Map buttons you can reach: ERS Overtake, Brake Bias +/-, and Diff changes.
  • Build habits per corner type:
    • Hairpins: Short‑shift and straighten early.
    • Medium speed: Feather throttle at the limit; avoid curbs on power.
    • High speed: One clean turn‑in; tiny corrections only.
  • Use ghosts in Time Trial to learn safe throttle points.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

  • You can complete 10 consecutive Time Trial laps without a spin.
  • Rear tire temps stay stable (no constant spiking after exits).
  • You rarely see traction control flashing, and when it does, it’s brief.
  • You can apply 80–100% throttle only when steering is nearly straight.
  • Lap times sit within ~0.5s without major corrections.
  • Now that your how to stop spinning in F125 is dialed in, the next big gain usually comes from braking. Read our guide on F125 braking technique.
  • Want to reduce mistakes further? Check out F125 controller and wheel settings for smooth inputs.
  • Ready to customize further? See our F125 beginner setup guide for stable, raceable cars.

You’ve got this. Keep the inputs smooth, make small setup tweaks, and practice on a calm track. The spins will stop—and your times will fall.

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