F125 suspension settings

Learn about F125 suspension settings


Updated October 21, 2025

If you’re new to F1 25 and wrestling with F125 suspension settings, you’re not alone. It’s frustrating when the car feels snappy over kerbs, understeers mid‑corner, or loses traction on exit. That happens because small changes to suspension, anti‑roll bars, camber, toe, and ride height interact in complex ways. This guide will demystify the lot so you can quickly build a stable, confidence‑inspiring setup.

Quick Answer

Start simple: use balanced camber and minimal toe, keep the rear slightly softer than the front for stability, and run a small rear‑higher ride height. If the car is nervous, soften the rear suspension/ARB and raise ride height by 1–2 clicks. If it’s lazy to turn, add a little rear ARB or reduce front toe‑in. Test changes one at a time in Time Trial.

Why F125 suspension settings Feels So Hard at First

  • The suspension menu controls how the car makes mechanical grip, handles bumps/kerbs, and rotates in corners. Each slider influences others.
  • F1 25’s physics reward small, targeted tweaks; big changes can make the car unpredictable, especially on a controller.
  • By the end, you’ll know what each setting does in plain language, how to adjust it step‑by‑step, and how to fix common handling symptoms fast.

What F125 suspension settings Actually Means in F1 25

In the Garage > Car Setup, you’ll adjust two pages:

  • Suspension Geometry:
    • Front Camber, Rear Camber
    • Front Toe, Rear Toe
  • Suspension:
    • Front Suspension, Rear Suspension
    • Front Anti‑Roll Bar, Rear Anti‑Roll Bar
    • Front Ride Height, Rear Ride Height

Plain‑English first, quick tech second:

  • Camber (tilt of the tyre):
    • Less negative = more braking/traction; more negative = more mid‑corner grip but more heat/wear.
  • Toe (tyre pointing angle):
    • Front toe‑out sharpens turn‑in but adds drag/heat; rear toe‑in stabilizes on‑throttle but adds drag.
  • Spring/Suspension stiffness:
    • Stiffer = quicker response, less roll, worse over bumps/traction.
    • Softer = better over kerbs/traction, slower change of direction.
  • Anti‑Roll Bars (ARB):
    • Front ARB: stiffer adds mid‑corner understeer; softer gives front grip.
    • Rear ARB: stiffer adds rotation/oversteer; softer gives rear grip/traction.
  • Ride Height:
    • Lower improves aero/straight‑line; too low bottoms out and kills grip.
    • Small “rake” (rear higher than front) usually helps rotation and stability.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

  • Hardware:
    • Works with wheel or controller. If you’re on a controller, avoid extreme stiffness and ultra‑low ride heights.
  • Game mode:
    • Use Time Trial to test (consistent fuel/tyres and no Parc Fermé).
    • Career/Grand Prix/Multiplayer may enforce Parc Fermé; you can’t change suspension after qualifying begins.
  • Menus:
    • From the garage, open Car Setup.
    • Use Suspension Geometry and Suspension tabs.
    • Save setups with Save Setup so you can revert easily.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 suspension settings

We’ll build a safe, stable baseline, then tailor it. Make one change at a time, do 3–5 laps, and compare.

  1. Load a baseline and save a copy
  • Open Car Setup.
  • Press Reset to Default or load your usual balanced setup.
  • Use Save Setup and name it “Suspension—Baseline”.

You should now see a standard/neutral setup saved.

  1. Set geometry first (grip foundation)
  • Front Camber, Rear Camber:
    • Start near the middle or slightly less negative than default for traction and tyre life.
    • If you need more mid‑corner front bite, add a touch more negative front camber.
  • Front Toe:
    • Start at or near minimum to reduce drag and heat.
    • If turn‑in feels lazy, increase slightly.
  • Rear Toe:
    • Start with a small amount of toe‑in for stability.
    • If the car feels “draggy” on straights or rear tyres run hot, reduce slightly.

Success looks like: stable braking/traction and cooler tyres after a 3‑lap run, with no dartiness on the straight.

  1. Set spring balance (entry/exit grip and kerb behavior)
  • Front Suspension vs Rear Suspension:
    • For beginner stability on throttle: keep the rear 1–2 clicks softer than the front.
    • If exit oversteer persists, soften rear one more click.
    • If car rolls too much or feels sluggish, stiffen both evenly by 1 click.

Success: the car accepts kerbs without bouncing and puts power down cleanly off slow corners.

  1. Tune anti‑roll bars (mid‑corner balance)
  • Front ARB:
    • If mid‑corner understeer: soften 1 click.
    • If the front feels too “floaty”: stiffen 1 click.
  • Rear ARB:
    • If the car won’t rotate: stiffen 1 click.
    • If it’s too nervous mid‑corner/exit: soften 1 click.

Rule of thumb: front ARB for front grip (understeer), rear ARB for rotation (oversteer).

  1. Set ride heights (aero vs. bottoming)
  • Start with rear 1–2 clicks higher than front.
  • At fast tracks or if you scrape the floor in high‑speed corners/straights, raise both by 1–2 clicks.
  • For street or kerb‑heavy circuits, raise both by 1 and/or soften springs slightly.

Success: no prolonged bottoming/sparks in fast corners, and top speed isn’t noticeably worse.

  1. Track‑type quick adjustments
  • Bumpy streets (Monaco, Singapore, Baku):
    • Soften springs and ARBs 1–2 clicks, raise ride height 1–2.
  • Fast/flat (Monza, Silverstone):
    • Lower ride height if not bottoming; keep toe minimal; use slightly stiffer ARBs.
  • Kerb‑heavy (Austria, Imola):
    • Soften springs 1 click; ensure sufficient ride height to ride kerbs cleanly.
  • Wet conditions:
    • Soften rear suspension and rear ARB 1 click; raise ride height 1; reduce front toe for stability.
  1. Save and compare
  • Save as “Stable V1”.
  • Do a 5‑lap run. If something feels worse, revert the last change only.
  • Keep notes: “Rear ARB +1 = better rotation T3/T9, small exit slide T10”.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 suspension settings

  • Changing too many things at once:
    • Fix one symptom with one change, test, then move on.
  • Maxing sliders “for pace”:
    • Extreme camber, toe, stiffness, or low ride height usually overheats tyres, reduces traction, or causes bottoming.
  • Using Time Trial “meta” in races:
    • Ultra‑low and stiff TT setups are unstable with fuel/tyre wear and kerbs in races.
  • Ignoring tyre temps:
    • Hot fronts → understeer; hot rears → traction loss. Geometry and ARBs affect this massively.
  • Forgetting Parc Fermé:
    • In career/multiplayer weekends, you can’t change suspension after qualifying starts. Finalize in practice or Time Trial.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

Symptom → Likely cause → Quick fixes:

  • Lazy turn‑in

    • Too little front rotation; too much front ARB or too little front toe‑out.
    • Actions: soften Front ARB 1; add a touch of Front Toe; slightly stiffer Rear ARB.

  • Mid‑corner understeer

    • Front overload, front ARB too stiff, not enough camber.
    • Actions: soften Front ARB 1; add a bit more negative Front Camber; slightly stiffen Rear ARB.

  • Snap oversteer on throttle (corner exit)

    • Rear too stiff or not enough toe‑in.
    • Actions: soften Rear Suspension 1; soften Rear ARB 1; add Rear Toe‑in a notch; consider raising rear ride height 1 if bottoming.

  • Oversteer on entry/braking

    • Rear instability, rake too high, rear toe too low.
    • Actions: add Rear Toe‑in; lower Rear ARB 1; reduce rake (raise front or lower rear 1).

  • Bouncy over kerbs

    • Springs/ARBs too stiff or ride height too low.
    • Actions: soften both Suspensions 1; soften ARBs 1; raise ride height 1.

  • Bottoming in fast corners/straights

    • Ride height too low, or springs too soft.
    • Actions: raise both ride heights 1–2; or stiffen both Suspensions 1.

  • Tyres overheating

    • Excessive toe/camber or sliding from imbalance.
    • Actions: reduce toe (front and/or rear); run less negative camber; soften ARB causing the slide.

Note: If your changes don’t apply in career/multiplayer, you may be under Parc Fermé. Make adjustments in Practice or Time Trial, then load the saved setup.

Don’t: chase time by cranking rear ARB to max or slamming ride height to the floor—this often makes the car undriveable, especially on a controller.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

  • Controller vs wheel:
    • Controller: prioritize stability—slightly softer rear suspension, softer rear ARB, a touch more rear toe‑in, and a bit higher ride height.
    • Wheel: you can run slightly stiffer bars and lower toe for sharper feel.
  • One‑click tuning map:
    • Entry understeer → soften Front ARB or stiffen Rear ARB one click.
    • Mid‑corner push → soften Front ARB; add negative Front Camber one step.
    • Exit traction → soften Rear Suspension; soften Rear ARB; add Rear Toe‑in.
  • Test loop:
    • Do 3‑lap stints on equal fuel/ERS lines. Use the same out‑lap prep. Compare best/average lap and tyre temps after lap 3.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Run a 5‑lap test in Time Trial and check:

  • You can take medium kerbs without bouncing or snapping.
  • No prolonged scraping/bottoming through fast bends.
  • Exit traction is predictable; no sudden snaps at 30–70% throttle.
  • Tyre temperatures stabilize after lap 3 (fronts not much hotter than rears unless track demands it).
  • Your average pace is consistent within a few tenths, with fewer “save moments.”
  • Now that your F125 suspension settings are dialed, the next big gain usually comes from differential tuning. See our guide on F125 differential settings.
  • Struggling with understeer/oversteer elsewhere? Read F125 aerodynamics (wings) made simple.
  • Locking wheels or missing apexes? Improve consistency with our F125 braking technique guide.

With these principles and a methodical approach, you’ll turn suspension from a headache into a reliable tool for lap time and consistency.

Your subscribe form goes here