F125 camber and toe settings

Learn about F125 camber and toe settings

Updated October 27, 2025

If you’re new, the Suspension Geometry screen can feel like a trap: tiny numbers, big consequences. It’s normal to feel lost with F125 camber and toe settings. In F1 25, tyre heat and scrub are sensitive, so small tweaks change grip, stability, and wear. This guide will teach you what each slider does, safe starting points, and a simple process to dial them in for any track.

Quick Answer

Start conservative to protect tyres: Front Camber around “moderate negative,” Rear Camber slightly less negative, minimal Front Toe, small Rear Toe-in. Test 3–5 push laps in Time Trial while watching inner/middle/outer tyre temps. If inside shoulders overheat or the car drags on straights, reduce negative camber and toe. Save your setup and iterate one click at a time.

Why F125 camber and toe settings Feels So Hard at First

The labels are unintuitive: more negative numbers can mean more grip but also more heat and wear.
In F1 25’s tyre model, “scrub” from camber/toe quickly overheats tyres, masking whether a change helped.
Good news: a simple, repeatable process makes geometry setup predictable within a few laps.

What F125 camber and toe settings Actually Means in F1 25

Plain language:

Camber: how much the top of the tyre leans in or out. More negative camber = better mid-corner grip but hotter inner shoulders and less braking/traction.
Toe: whether tyres point slightly inward or outward.
- Front Toe-out = quicker turn-in but more drag and tramlining.
- Rear Toe-in = stability on throttle/brakes but more tyre scrub.

Short technical version:

Negative camber angles load the inner shoulder during cornering, increasing lateral grip at the cost of straight-line contact patch and heat.
Toe introduces a constant slip angle. Front toe-out aids yaw initiation; rear toe-in damps rear rotation. Both increase rolling resistance and temperature.

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware: works for both wheel and controller. Controller players generally need milder toe and camber.
Mode: use Time Trial for consistent weather/fuel or Practice in Career/My Team.
Patch: latest major patch. Exact “best” values can shift with updates; focus on the process.
Menus you’ll use:
- In garage: Car Setup > Suspension Geometry (you’ll see sliders for Front Camber, Rear Camber, Front Toe, Rear Toe).
- HUD/Telemetry: enable Tyre Temperatures (shows Inner/Middle/Outer for each tyre).

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 camber and toe settings

Pick a test environment
- Open Time Trial, choose a medium-speed track (e.g., Spain, Bahrain, Austria).
- Reason: consistent temps + clear corners to feel turn-in and exits.
Load a baseline
- Go to Car Setup > Suspension Geometry.
- Start with the game’s default or balanced preset. Save a copy so you can revert.
Set a safe starting point
- Aim for “moderate” negative Front Camber, slightly less negative Rear Camber.
- Keep Front Toe low (near the minimal end).
- Set Rear Toe to a small, safe toe-in.
- Success looks like: the car is stable on straights, rotates predictably, and tyres don’t spike in temperature after 2–3 push laps.
Run a short test
- Do 1 out-lap + 3 push laps.
- Watch Inner/Middle/Outer temps: the inner should be warmest, but by only ~3–7°C versus middle, not 10°C+.
- Note handling:
  - Mid-corner understeer = not enough front grip.
  - Exit oversteer = rear too lively.
  - Wandering/drag on straights = too much toe.
Adjust in small steps (1–2 clicks)
- Need more front rotation mid-corner?
  - Add a touch more negative Front Camber or a tiny increase in Front Toe-out.
- Snappy rear on throttle?
  - Reduce negative Rear Camber slightly and/or add a click of Rear Toe-in.
- Tyres overheating, straight-line slow?
  - Reduce Front Toe and Rear Toe, then consider reducing camber.
Re-test and compare
- Repeat the 1 out-lap + 3 push laps routine.
- If lap time improves but temps balloon or consistency drops, back off the aggression.
Save and label
- Use Save Setup with a clear name: “TrackName – Dry – CamToe v2”.
- Keep versions so you can roll back fast.
Apply race-day adjustments
- For races: tone down negative camber and reduce both toes slightly to protect tyres.
- For qualifying: you can run a bit more negative Front Camber and Front Toe-out for one-lap grip.

You should now see your Suspension Geometry screen with four sliders set to mild-to-moderate values, tyres stabilizing after lap 2, and improved cornering without straight-line wander.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 camber and toe settings

“Max negative camber = fastest.”
Often true for one corner, false for a lap. It overheats inner shoulders and kills traction/braking.
“Toe doesn’t matter much.”
It adds drag and heat immediately. Small changes have big effects.
Changing multiple things at once.
Adjust one axis (front or rear, camber or toe) per test or you won’t know what helped.
Copying a meta setup blindly.
Controller players usually need less toe and less negative camber than wheel users.
Ignoring parc fermé.
In Career/Quali sessions, geometry is locked after qualifying starts; set it in Practice.
Forgetting to save.
Leaving the garage without saving reverts changes in some modes.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

Inside shoulders 10°C+ hotter than middle, quick overheating
- Likely cause: too much negative camber and/or too much toe.
- Fix: reduce negative camber one click; reduce both toes. Re-test.
Car darts or follows bumps on straights
- Cause: excessive Front Toe-out.
- Fix: move Front Toe closer to neutral; check steering linearity if on controller.
Mid-corner understeer (won’t rotate)
- Cause: not enough front grip.
- Fix: add a click of negative Front Camber; optionally a tiny increase in Front Toe-out. If temps spike, back off camber and try slightly more front wing instead.
Snap oversteer on throttle/exits
- Cause: rear too free (low rear toe-in or too much negative rear camber).
- Fix: add Rear Toe-in by a click; reduce negative Rear Camber slightly.
Braking instability (rear stepping out)
- Cause: insufficient rear stability.
- Fix: add Rear Toe-in; reduce negative Rear Camber; check brake bias toward front a touch.
Changes don’t apply
- Note: you must click Apply or Save Setup before leaving the garage. In some multiplayer lobbies with Fixed Setups, geometry is locked.
Wet conditions feel awful
- Principle: reduce both negative camber and toe to lower scrub and keep temps in the window. Add stability first; pace second.

What NOT to do:

Don’t change more than 1–2 clicks per test.
Don’t run extreme toe for races—it overheats tyres and hurts straight-line speed.
Don’t ignore tyre temps; they tell you if a change is sustainable.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Track tendencies
- High-speed/low-downforce (Monza): minimal toe, moderate camber to reduce drag and heat.
- Street circuits (Monaco/Singapore): a touch more Front Toe-out for rotation; manage temps with slightly less camber if overheating.
- Hot tracks: reduce camber/toe; cold tracks: you can add a bit more camber.
Controller vs wheel
- Controller: keep Front Toe near minimal and avoid extreme negative camber for stability.
- Wheel: you can run slightly more aggressive camber/toe, but monitor temps.
Quali vs Race
- Quali: accept a bit more toe-out and negative front camber for one lap.
- Race: back them off to preserve tyres over stints.
Parc fermé workflow
- Lock in geometry during Practice. After Quali begins, only limited items are adjustable, so plan ahead.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

Handling
- Car tracks straight under full throttle and heavy braking.
- Predictable turn-in; no mid-corner wash or surprise snaps on exits.
Tyre temperatures
- Inner ~3–7°C warmer than middle (not 10°C+). Outer not stone-cold.
- Temps stabilize by lap 2–3 without constant overheating warnings.
Lap time and consistency
- Your best laps are improving or equal, and your lap-to-lap delta is within ~0.2–0.3s over a 4–6 lap run.
Wear
- No single shoulder wearing dramatically faster in short runs.

Now that your F125 camber and toe settings are dialed, the next big gain is keeping tyres in the window. See our guide: F125 tyre temperatures and pressures.
Rotation also depends on springs and ARBs. Read: F125 suspension setup basics.
Struggling to stop the car straight? Check: F125 braking technique and brake bias setup.

With this process, you can confidently set camber and toe in under 15 minutes per track and convert that into stable, repeatable pace.