F125 controls explained

Learn about F125 controls explained

Updated October 1, 2025

If you’re wrestling with menus, mystery sliders, or missing inputs, you’re not alone. F125 controls explained is a common pain point because F1 25 supports many devices (pads and wheels), each needing different sensitivity, force feedback, and button mappings. This guide promises a clean, step‑by‑step setup so you can drive confidently and manage ERS/DRS without fighting the car.

Quick Answer

Go to Settings > Controls and create a custom profile for your device. Calibrate steering, throttle, and brake. Set sensible deadzones/linearity, tune vibration/force feedback, and map essentials (ERS Overtake, DRS, Pit Limiter, MFD). Test in Time Trial and adjust until inputs are smooth, reach 0–100%, and the wheel/pad feels natural.

Why F125 controls explained Feels So Hard at First

F1 cars react to tiny inputs; small mistakes in sensitivity or deadzones become big handling issues.
Default profiles are generic. Your controller’s triggers or your wheel’s brake pedal won’t match “one-size-fits-all.”
There are many race functions (ERS, DRS, MFD, pit limiter) you must map logically to drive, think, and adjust on the fly.

What F125 controls explained Actually Means in F1 25

“Controls” in F1 25 cover three things:

Button/axis mapping: which button does ERS, DRS, pit limiter, MFD, camera, etc.
Sensitivity: deadzones, linearity, and saturation for steering/throttle/brake.
Vibration/Force Feedback (FFB): how strongly and how clearly you feel the car and track.

You’ll find these in:

Settings > Controls
Settings > Vibration & Force Feedback
Settings > Assists (for ABS, Traction Control, Steering/Braking Assist)

Before You Start (Prerequisites)

Hardware:
- Controller (Xbox/PlayStation/PC) or a steering wheel/pedals (Logitech/Thrustmaster/Fanatec, etc.).
- For wheels: latest drivers/firmware installed; set wheel rotation in the driver (commonly 360–400° to start for F1 cars).
Game mode to test: Time Trial (no AI, stable conditions).
In-game menus you’ll use:
- Settings > Controls
- Settings > Vibration & Force Feedback
- Settings > Assists
- Calibration screen inside Controls (shows input bars)

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Improve F125 controls explained

Create a fresh control profile

Open Settings > Controls.
Select your device (e.g., Wireless Controller, Steering Wheel).
Choose Preset > Create New/Custom and Rename (e.g., “Pad_Starter” or “Wheel_360deg”).
Success check: You see your new profile selected with all inputs editable.

Calibrate your axes

Still in Controls, open Calibration (the screen with live input bars).
Slowly turn the wheel lock-to-lock or move the stick fully left/right; fully press/release throttle and brake.
Success check: Bars reach 0% and 100% cleanly with no flicker when untouched.

Set sensible sensitivity (the sliders) Plain-language first, then short technical note.

Controller starter values (adjust by feel):

Steering Deadzone: 0–2
Steering Linearity: 15–30 (smoother center)
Steering Saturation: 0
Throttle Deadzone: 0–2
Throttle Linearity: 0–10
Brake Deadzone: 1–3
Brake Linearity: 30–60 (helps avoid instant lock-ups on triggers)

Wheel starter values (will vary by model):

Steering Deadzone: 0
Steering Linearity: 0–10 (keep low; wheels are precise)
Steering Saturation: 0 (set wheel rotation in driver instead)
Throttle Deadzone: 0–2
Throttle Linearity: 0–10
Brake Deadzone: 0–5 (more if pedal drifts or rests slightly engaged)
Brake Linearity: 0–25 (higher if you don’t have a load cell and lock easily)

Technical note:

Deadzone ignores tiny unintended inputs.
Linearity changes how quickly input ramps up around center or light presses.
Saturation compresses the range; avoid unless you truly can’t hit full lock or 100% pedal travel.

Map your essential race functions Open Settings > Controls > Button Functions. Bind these so they’re reachable while cornering:

ERS Overtake (push-to-pass)
DRS
Pit Limiter
MFD Toggle and MFD Up/Down/Left/Right
MFD Shortcuts (Brake Bias, On‑Throttle Differential, Front Wing)
Radio/Strategy
Camera Change and Look Back
Pause/Flashback (optional but useful in practice) Controller suggestions:
ERS Overtake: RB/R1 (easy to “push and hold” on exits)
DRS: A/Cross (face button)
MFD Toggle: View/Touchpad
MFD Nav: D‑pad
Pit Limiter: Y/Triangle

Wheel suggestions:

ERS Overtake: Thumb button within reach on corner exit
DRS: Wheel face or left thumb cluster
Pit Limiter: Marked button
MFD Toggle: Wheel button
MFD Nav: 4-way hat
Brake Bias/Front Wing: Dedicated rotary or +/- pair if available

Success check: In a session, press each control and see the HUD confirm (DRS icon, Overtake bar, pit limiter light, MFD opening).

Tune vibration and force feedback Settings > Vibration & Force Feedback.

Controller starter points:

Vibration & FFB: ON
Vibration Strength: 50–70 (too high can mask detail)
Trigger Effect/Resistance (if available): Medium (helps braking feel, not too stiff)

Wheel starter points (general, then refine by model):

FFB Strength: 55–75
On‑Track Effects: 15–25 (road detail)
Rumble Strip: 25–40
Off‑Track: 20–35
Wheel Damper: 5–15 (stability without dullness)
Understeer Enhance: OFF (can feel artificial)
In your wheel driver: Overall Gain ~60–80%, Spring/Damper low-to-medium, Rotation 360–400°

Success check: Strongest forces in medium/high‑speed corners without “clipping” (constant heavy weight). Kerbs feel textured, not violent; car goes light when understeering.

Set assists to match your device and skill Settings > Assists:

Controller starters: Traction Control Medium, ABS On (learn lines first), Dynamic Racing Line Corners Only.
Wheel starters: Traction Control Off or Medium (depending on experience), ABS Off or On (your call).
Turn off Steering/Braking Assist for real control. Success check: You can lap consistently without constant spins or lock‑ups.

Save and test

Save the profile (duplicate as a backup after major changes).
Time Trial > any track you know (e.g., Austria, Spain).
Do 5–10 laps focusing on smooth inputs.
Adjust one thing at a time (e.g., +10 brake linearity if locking; −10 FFB if clipping). Success check: Input bars hit 0–100%, the car responds predictably, and your lap deltas stabilize.

Common Mistakes and Myths About F125 controls explained

“Max FFB = more realism” — No. Overly high FFB clips detail and tires you out.
“Leave wheel at 900°” — For F1 cars, 360–400° is more appropriate; 900° makes steering too slow.
“Zero deadzone is always best” — Not if your stick/pedals drift; add 1–3%.
Mapping ERS and DRS to awkward buttons — If you can’t hit them mid‑corner/exit, you won’t use them when it matters.
Ignoring brake linearity on a pad — Low linearity causes instant lock‑ups with light trigger pulls.

Troubleshooting and “What If It Still Feels Wrong?”

Steering pulls or jitters at center
- Likely cause: Noisy sensor or stick drift.
- Fix: Add 1–3% Steering Deadzone; re‑calibrate. For wheels, check driver calibration.
Can’t reach 100% throttle/brake
- Likely cause: Limited travel or soft pedals/triggers.
- Fix: Re‑calibrate; increase Saturation slightly (last resort). For pads, reduce trigger resistance. For wheels, check pedal driver calibration.
FFB is numb in corners but violent on kerbs
- Likely cause: FFB Strength too high, On‑Track too low.
- Fix: Lower FFB Strength 5–10; raise On‑Track Effects 5; reduce Damper if the wheel feels “stuck.”
DRS/ERS won’t activate
- Likely cause: Unbound or conflicting inputs.
- Fix: Rebind DRS and ERS Overtake to unique buttons. Test in Practice/Time Trial—DRS only opens in detection/activation zones.
Wheel not detected or inputs doubled (PC)
- Likely cause: Steam Input/other devices interfering.
- Fix: In Steam, per‑game controller settings: Disable Steam Input for the wheel. Unplug extra HID devices. Use the correct wheel “compatibility mode” per manufacturer.
Massive input delay
- Likely cause: V‑Sync or low frame rate.
- Fix: Disable V‑Sync or use Fast/Adaptive; cap FPS to a stable value; enable low‑latency mode in your GPU settings.
Changes don’t stick
- Note: Make sure to Confirm/Apply and exit the menu properly; duplicate the profile after big edits to keep a safe version.

What not to do:

Don’t max every slider “for immersion.”
Don’t bind multiple key functions to the same button unless you’re certain they won’t conflict.
Don’t rely on Saturation to fix technique problems—solve calibration and pedal feel first.

Pro Tips Once You’re Comfortable

Make ERS Overtake a “hold” habit: press on corner exit, release on braking for clean energy use.
Use MFD Shortcuts for Brake Bias (+/−) and On‑Throttle Diff: quick tweaks for tire saving or wet conditions.
Create two profiles: “Dry” and “Wet/Low Grip” (slightly more brake linearity, gentler FFB).
Turn Understeer Enhance OFF on wheels; learn to feel front‑end lightness naturally.
Review input bars while stationary: any flicker = add 1–2% deadzone to that axis.

How to Know It’s Working (Definition of Done)

In the calibration screen, all axes rest at 0% with no flicker and reach 100% smoothly.
You can open the MFD and adjust Brake Bias or Front Wing while cornering without losing the car.
DRS and ERS respond instantly, and your lap times become consistent (±0.3–0.5s in Time Trial).
FFB feels detailed (kerbs/understeer/weight transfer) without arm fatigue or clipping.

Now that you’ve got F125 controls explained working, the next big gain usually comes from braking. Read our guide on F125 braking technique.
Fine‑tune your feel with our F125 force feedback setup guide for pads and wheels.
Get faster in races with our F125 ERS and DRS management guide.

Step-by-Step: How to Fix / Use / Improve F125 controls explained

(Quick reference recap)

Settings > Controls > New Custom Profile.
Calibrate steering/throttle/brake until bars hit 0–100%.
Set sensitivity (deadzone/linearity) using the starter ranges above.
Map ERS, DRS, Pit Limiter, MFD Toggle/Nav, Bias, Diff, Front Wing.
Tune Vibration/FFB (don’t clip; prioritize detail).
Set assists to your current skill.
Save, test in Time Trial, adjust one slider at a time.